TC Running Temp

PostPost by: pauljones » Mon May 01, 2017 7:17 pm

I see you have at some time changed instruments. Mine reads high and sounds similar to yours. I was told the instruments need a resistor to give 10volts to it. Mine was rewired and the temp read high after. Perhaps this is your issue. I personally have not sorted this out yet. Incidently its same on fuel gauge. I just carry spare. ECU says its fine so temps dont concern me now.
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PostPost by: rdssdi » Mon May 01, 2017 7:21 pm

I cannot recall the CFM output. I did shop for the highest output fan.

I do not believe that the fan is the problem as when the car is moving ram air will be far greater than any fan and the temperature does not go down.

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PostPost by: rdssdi » Mon May 01, 2017 7:23 pm

I have a solid state voltage regulator for the instruments. It looks the same as the original Smiths bimetallic unit. The reading was the same with the old bimetallic regulator and the new solid state unit.

Bob
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PostPost by: collins_dan » Mon May 01, 2017 8:12 pm

I similarly have headers with jet hot coating. I've often wondered if headers contribute to the high temperature readings, as even with the jet hot coating they are extremely hot. I never had the conventional cast iron exhaust manifold and have often wondered what external temperature they radiate. Once you get you IR temp reader, post the temp of the header and maybe someone with cast iron can provide a comparable number. I suspect that the headers are a lot hotter and are heating up the probe that is directly above them. Dan
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PostPost by: rdssdi » Tue May 02, 2017 12:10 am

I will report. Although the header temperature may exceed the units range.

I am skeptical that the coolant temperature is "normal" and the gauge is incorrect. While it is true that the headers are very hot and heating up the sender portion on the head, the engine is difficult to restart once reaching "operating" temperature. To me that indicates a hot engine. It is possible I am incorrect. Someone who is more knowledgable than I could provide some insight.

Bob
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PostPost by: Sea Ranch » Tue May 02, 2017 5:26 am

In case it was lost in the shuffle . . .

Would be relatively easy to remove your car's water temp sensor, put it in a pot of water, heat up, read the gauge in the car and also read a thermometer in the pot. Then you'll have a good idea how accurate your sensor and gauge combination is, compared to a thermometer in the same pot of water (heck, put in 2 or three thermometers and see how they all compare).

At the very least you will be able to definitively rule in or out the gauge/sensor combination.

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PostPost by: nmauduit » Tue May 02, 2017 9:23 am

rdssdi wrote:I now remember another issue. When I stop the engine when hot restarting is somewhat difficult.

The starter turns the engine what seems to be faster and the engine will catch and not run. It takes a few attempts to get it running. This is juxtaposed with starting from cold which is easy and usually does not require choke.

It appears to me that this would be a symptom of an engine that is too hot. I may be doing a flush clean shortly.
Bob


I would not think this is a major issue : like they say at Micros0ft, this is not a bug, this is a feature... If you have Weber (or Dell'ortos) have you tried to fully press the accelerator pedal slowly before launching the starter when the engine is hot?

rdssdi wrote:I read that a dishwasher soap and hot water should be used first to remove oils. Then an infusion and soaking with citric acid and hot water. Flush and repeat as necessary.

Is this correct? Other suggestions? Anyway to get a visible inspection of the block cooling passages?
Bob


rather than foamy dishwasher soap, I would use a powder basic soap (detergent being what will get at oily muck, you don't need spotless clean afterwards). That certainly would not hurt, but can get messy... depending on where you can do it, I would wait till the actual temperature is confirmed before embarking in the big spring clean up.
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PostPost by: Robbie693 » Tue May 02, 2017 12:17 pm

I found the discussion on this thread http://www.lotuselan.net/forums/lotus-twincam-f39/washing-engine-block-after-boring-t36202.html?hilit=galleries#p248045, starting about half way down the page, thought provoking on the subject of hot running engines

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PostPost by: nmauduit » Tue May 02, 2017 12:36 pm

Robbie693 wrote:I found the discussion on this thread http://www.lotuselan.net/forums/lotus-twincam-f39/washing-engine-block-after-boring-t36202.html?hilit=galleries#p248045, starting about half way down the page, thought provoking on the subject of hot running engines

Robbie


yes, but taking out the casting plugs is not that convenient inside the vehicle, I would not consider that a small job and would rather work on the block out of the car if it came to that...
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Tue May 02, 2017 3:09 pm

My Elan Sprint runs at 85?C normal driving and rises to a little over 90?C when stuck in traffic.
Standard rad and stainless exhaust manifold. When restarting hot i don't touch the accelerater
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PostPost by: collins_dan » Tue May 02, 2017 4:21 pm

The car had a hot restarting issue when I first bought it. I changed a bunch of things right away (new coil, electronic ignition, fuel pressure regulator, carb tune as it was really rich, stopped giving it any gas when hot) and the problem went away. I feel like it was too much fuel, but not sure which of those made the ultimate difference. Dan
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PostPost by: prezoom » Tue May 02, 2017 8:08 pm

Like Dan, I never touch the accelerator pedal when the engine is hot, and it starts right away. Touch the gas and I wind up cranking for a while.
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PostPost by: gus » Fri May 05, 2017 12:04 pm

>>> I believe at that that temp I would encounter signs of overheating which I have not. <<

I dunno why you would think this

It is certainly warm

I have accidentally had my +2 just below the 120C line with no signs of 'overheating'

For peace of mind put a manual switch on the fan
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PostPost by: prezoom » Fri May 05, 2017 4:10 pm

I think I have always had a "love, hate" relationship with my temperature gauge. It is entertaining though. Under normal driving conditions at reasonable temperatures, the gauge rarely gets much over 170 degrees. On cold days or in the early morning, it never even gets that warm. And that is with a 190 degree thermostat. The only time it gets hot is when it is hot and I am sitting in traffic for an extended period of time, even though I have activated the heater and its fan. The radiator fan is engine driven and one of those multi bladed yellow thingys.

The entertaining part is when driven with vigor up through the mountains, I can watch the temperature rise to the point of the thermostat opening and then watch the gauge drop back down until the thermostat closes, only to rise again, open, close, rise, open, close, rise, until things level off.

My car came with vent holes cut in the inner fender wells, one on each side. It is my belief that with he size of the cylinder head, under normal conditions, and with the increased moving air, the head is capable of transferring most of the generated heat. For sake of my curiosity, I would like to figure out a way to add another temperature gauge, to sample the temps at another place in the engine, as I have some concerns about localized heating.
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PostPost by: gus » Fri May 05, 2017 9:03 pm

Have you changed the thermostat? could be too high
do you have the foam around the radiator? will not cool down on highway without it
check the fan switch temp. it is usually stamped on it.
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