Lotus Elan and Lotus Elan Plus 2 Forums

I put a layer of Welseal between the cork gasket and the cam cover which also holds the gasket in position and then a light smear of grease on the head side. Seems to work well and the gasket doesn't stick to the head when changing it.

Great tip on the nitrile rubber, thanks.
I stuck a cometic gasket to the sheet with "chemical vulcanising adhesive" and trimmed it out with a utility knife.
The Cometic part ensures the stability of the gasket so no adhesive is required on installation.
I also drilled a shallow chamfer in each fixing hole, using a 9.5mm drill, to accept 'O' rings with a 5mm i.d. Plain washers under the nylocs now compress these to give a perfect seal.
Just back from a spirited 60ml run and not a seep.
EXCEPT! The filler cap still gets oily all around it. I'm using a washer made from the nitrile sheet but this hasn't worked here. Any tips for this? Or maybe I just need to go thicker still.
I also get some dip stick spotting after high revs. 'O' ring here?
Dougal.

I believe some owners put a baffle over the cam cap studs so that the oil filler is not subject to direct
oil splash. (Although it would be simpler to try a thicker washer first!)

Good idea to cut a small coundersink for the O rings. Although I found them a bit awkward to remove without damage. Get a supply!

I recently suffered a noticeable leak from the filler. I looked into it while I had the cover of to check vale clearances.

I found the cap wasn't centering correctly on closing. So I turned the rubber seal over and adjusted the tabs on the filler cap so it's more likely to stay centralised on closing. Not had much running since and haven't specifically checked but I expect the situation is much better.

Some thing to check when looking into filler cap leaks....

Many thanks to everbody for this great advices.
This time i try the Camcover-Silicone-Cork-Silicone-Headface methode and give a bit of oil to the face of the head to improve the removability.

dougal9887 wrote:Great tip on the nitrile rubber, thanks.
I stuck a cometic gasket to the sheet with "chemical vulcanising adhesive" and trimmed it out with a utility knife.
The Cometic part ensures the stability of the gasket so no adhesive is required on installation.
I also drilled a shallow chamfer in each fixing hole, using a 9.5mm drill, to accept 'O' rings with a 5mm i.d. Plain washers under the nylocs now compress these to give a perfect seal.
Just back from a spirited 60ml run and not a seep.
EXCEPT! The filler cap still gets oily all around it. I'm using a washer made from the nitrile sheet but this hasn't worked here. Any tips for this? Or maybe I just need to go thicker still.
I also get some dip stick spotting after high revs. 'O' ring here?
Dougal.

I have the same problem, tried various gaskets and thicknesses and fitting the cap in different orientations but I now have another theory which I intend to try - the sealing face of the filler neck is painted and my theory is that the uneven surface created by the crackle finish is allowing oil to pass through... Sound plausible? Worth a try methinks!

Robbie

I would think the crackle finish on the sealing edge allows the gasket in the cap to buckle, causing the
leak. A smooth surface with a thin film of oil should seal better, much like the oil filter mating surface
on the pump. Just theorizing, that's all.

"Wellseal" is not generally available in n.america-although I see that Pegasus Racing has it. I ordered some from England and have used it but I also have Permatex "Aviation-Form-a-Gasket" and the two look the same to me: Same colour, consistency and odour.
Are they the same thing does anyone know?

Davidb wrote:"Wellseal" is not generally available in n.america-although I see that Pegasus Racing has it. I ordered some from England and have used it but I also have Permatex "Aviation-Form-a-Gasket" and the two look the same to me: Same colour, consistency and odour.
Are they the same thing does anyone know?

Snap!
I bought both to try them out in various situations. As you say, they look and smell exactly the same.
Same viscosity , same "stickiness".

Vince

I have used them both but prefer the permatex for the preparation of gaskets

Hawksfield wrote:Vince

I have used them both but prefer the permatex for the preparation of gaskets

It was on your recommendation that I bought a tin to try.

What do you mean by "preparation of gasket?". Take,for instance, the thin paper gasket between block and timing case. Would you coat the gasket both sides?

I was going to try it between the outer and inner chaincase which, on the Burton pump, has no gasket. The Permatex specifically mentions closely machined surfaces, so should do the business.

Vince

I use Permatex! Anaerobic Gasket Maker 518 between front cover timing chain case and back plate. Between the back plate and block I use the aviation forma gasket on both sides, same for the cork gasket between the head and chain case top.
The preparation is only that you apply the dressing and allow time to let it set a little, see directions on TDS attached

gjz30075 wrote:I would think the crackle finish on the sealing edge allows the gasket in the cap to buckle, causing the
leak. A smooth surface with a thin film of oil should seal better, much like the oil filter mating surface
on the pump. Just theorizing, that's all.

That makes sense too, either way the crackle has to be removed. Thanks Greg

Robbie

Hawksfield wrote:Vince

I use Permatex! Anaerobic Gasket Maker 518 between front cover timing chain case and back plate. Between the back plate and block I use the aviation forma gasket on both sides, same for the cork gasket between the head and chain case top.
The preparation is only that you apply the dressing and allow time to let it set a little, see directions on TDS attached

Data sheet Permatex TDS 51813Anaerobic Gasketmaker.pdf

Data Sheet permatex 80019Aviation Form-AGasket No3.pdf

That is what I do also - except I use the Loctite branded equivalents as both brands are used interchangeably by Henkel depending on the market.

I also only use the Aviation form a gasket No3 on one side of the cam cover cork gasket so it does not stick and the cam cover can be removed without replacing the gasket.

Robbie693 wrote:

gjz30075 wrote:I would think the crackle finish on the sealing edge allows the gasket in the cap to buckle, causing the
leak. A smooth surface with a thin film of oil should seal better, much like the oil filter mating surface
on the pump. Just theorizing, that's all.

That makes sense too, either way the crackle has to be removed. Thanks Greg

Robbie

I would stuff a rag in the hole to catch particles then use sandpaper on a flat wood block to sand off any paint on the rim of the filler hole.

Or do it with the cam cover off the engine.