Lotus Elan and Lotus Elan Plus 2 Forums

Posted: **Mon Nov 14, 2016 3:08 am**

It will come off with careful use of a wood chisel in the tiniest of gaps between the head and cover. Preferably aim for a corner where the cover is stiffest. Guaranteed.

Posted: **Mon Nov 14, 2016 8:24 am**

elanner wrote:Tim's comment was not to remove the studs, but to wind them out of the head and take advantage of the step and bearing cap nut to lever the cover up from underneath. At least, that's how I read it.

Nick

To clarify, here is the original suggestion by Chancer, & my reply to it

Orsom Weels wrote:
Chancer wrote:Remove all the studs first and it should make removal a lot easier, you can then try knocking it sideways and back & forth with a rubber deadblow hammer.

You can't remove the studs as they are stepped from 5/16" on the lower section that secures the cam caps with a nylock nut to 1/4" where they come through the cam cover. Whether you could wind them out & kind of 'jack' the cover off I don't know, but I don't think it's a method I would like to try. I have some nylon/plastic wedges that I use for such occasions, (they were given to me by a windscreen fitter, he had loads on his van but not sure what he used them for, perhaps for freeing bonded screens ?) they are soft & springy & can be tapped in between the joint at various points without damaging the joint faces, then when you have a bit of a gap, you can go back to the sharp blade & whittle your way around until it gives in.

Regards Tim

I was simply trying to point out that you can not remove the studs as the lower portion is a larger diameter.
Whether this would 'jack' the cover off or not, I'm not sure I would want to have to find out. Far too much potential for damage to the cover, threads, &/or possibly even the cam caps or head it's self.
There has been much advice given to overcome this problem, some good, some, in my humble opinion, perhaps not so good, but it would be nice to hear back from Vince if he has made any progress, & if so, what method he used/tried, but I know he has had other little 'distractions' to keep him out of mischief

Tim

Posted: **Mon Nov 14, 2016 8:48 am**

Pictures of chisel attached to help explain. If you grind the corners a bit to round them off it helps to minimise the risk of scoring the aluminium

Posted: **Tue Nov 15, 2016 10:32 am**

Orsom Weels wrote: it would be nice to hear back from Vince if he has made any progress, & if so, what method he used/tried, but I know he has had other little 'distractions' to keep him out of mischief
Tim

Thanks for all the suggestions.
So far I have not progressed with it. It is not as important as some of the other "things" I've found so has simply been added to the list of jobs needing to be done. The nylocs are little more than finger tight and it still shows no sign of movement, so that silicone is highly effective!

It is fitted with a burton cartridge water pump/ front cover. Can this be removed without lifting the head?

Chancer - I have been tempted to "Just ***ing hit it" but maybe with something rather larger than a rubber hammer.

: screenhunter_53-nov.-15-10.29.jpg (21.83 KiB) Viewed 974 times

I'm in contact with the original restorers to get their opinion.

Vince

Posted: **Tue Nov 15, 2016 11:16 am**

Burton style 'cassette' water pumps should be removable without removing the head.

When you have removed radiator and the rubber drive belt and and (unlikely) mechanical fan you should see 3 bolt heads holding the module in.

Take out the bolts and screw them gently into the other 3 threaded holes (that should be there) in the module; be aware that one bolt is a bigger thread than the other two.

These 3 bolts will now act as a "puller" to pull the module out; which you do by rotating each bolt in turn by a small amount after the tip of the bolt has 'bottomed' against the timing case.

Posted: **Tue Nov 15, 2016 12:48 pm**

Thanks Bill,

Useful instructions.

I was actually referring to removing the whole front cover as it has a fair old leak that drips on the alternator.

: fl844_front_cover.jpg (39.7 KiB) Viewed 944 times

Its all new so I really don't see why it should leak if built properly The cam cover doesn't!

I see that I would need to remove the front sprocket and a few sump bolts but any hidden inside the head chain turret?

Vince

Posted: **Tue Nov 15, 2016 3:45 pm**

If the front cover has the same long 5/16 bolt as the original, and it looks as though it does, you need the cam cover off.

Posted: **Tue Nov 15, 2016 9:29 pm**

Hmm, I dont recall any extra internal bolts holding the back of the timing case to the block, but I have always taken the front of the timing case off first.

As mentioned by RogerFrench, you have a catch22 situation there; you need the cam cover off to remove the long front bolt that secures the head to the top of the front of the timing chain case.

Number 9 on this picture

Posted: **Tue Nov 15, 2016 10:27 pm**

Billwill

The back plate will have a single bolt retaining it to the block, I don't think the cartridge pump dispenses with it but I could be wrong :!:

Posted: **Thu Nov 17, 2016 5:58 pm**

Original timing covers had a chain damper on the LH side which projected into the head area, stopping the cover from being pulled off without removing the head. But the long bolt is the killer if you can't get the cover off.

Posted: **Fri Nov 18, 2016 2:25 pm**

Once again, thanks for the replies / suggestions.

Getting the cam cover off is a necessity as I want to check the cam timing. I suspect that could be another problem left by the "restorers", as it does feel a bit flat.

A call to Burton confirms that the head does have to come off before the front cover.

I'd rather not take the head off as that means just more trouble and expense. Which head gaskets are favourite these days?

First a hot compression test.

And sort the ***** fuel gauge some time!

Vince

Posted: **Sat Nov 19, 2016 12:52 am**

vincereynard wrote:
A call to Burton confirms that the head does have to come off before the front cover.

Vince

That isn't strictly true I have taken my front timing-chest plate off without removing the head; but you have to lower the sump instead, which is at least as much bother. And it does require a lot of wiggling to get the afore-mentioned chain damper/guide out.

Then for reassembly you have to cut a new middle cork gasket in exactly the right places and then use a just-appropriate amount of silicone or other sealant at the points where the new cork gasket meets the old one.

And of course you have to get the cam cover off first.

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