Snapping Sound

[Galwaylotus]

Does anyone know how to move a thread from one category to another? I started this in Electrical but it should be in Engine/Exhaust. Thanks.

[rgh0]

I use the Loctite Red high temperature silicone sealant.

regards
Rohan

[billwill]

Does anyone know how to move a thread from one category to another? I started this in Electrical but it should be in Engine/Exhaust. Thanks.

Only Jeff the moderator, can do that, so trigger a report in this thread by clicking the Exclamation Mark button and ask him politely to move it.

[Galwaylotus]

I use the Loctite Red high temperature silicone sealant.

regards
Rohan

Thanks, Rohan!

[jcocking]

Does anyone know how to move a thread from one category to another? I started this in Electrical but it should be in Engine/Exhaust. Thanks.

Only Jeff the moderator, can do that, so trigger a report in this thread by clicking the Exclamation Mark button and ask him politely to move it.

Always works.

Jeff

[Galwaylotus]

Many thanks, Jeff. Much appreciated.

[Galwaylotus]

There's always a "but"! I removed all the brass nuts to gain enough of a gap to seal the gaskets and found the 2-3 tubing is just touching the chassis frame. I can't get any gap on the centre cylinders and not enough on the 1-4 runs as they are captured by the centre manifold tubes! It seems I'll have to either ignore the 2-3 and try and force some sealant into the #1 connection or disconnect the left engine mount and jack the engine a bit to gain some space. The car is in my drive which is sloped left-to-right so that would be a pain. I might try the simpler bodge first as the leak was quite small and confined to #1.

[alan.barker]

When i fitted stainless manifolds i found i needed to remove some metal from the top chassis rail to stop contact.
I was not too impressed to have to do this to my galvanised chassis but no choice.
Alan

[rjaxe]

Alan, my +2 had a SS exhaust manifold fitted before I bought it and the galvanised chassis had been notched in two places to provide clearance. This sounds a bit like the issue you have with your car. I was concerned that this mod would create stress raisers and sure enough on v. close examination a crack was evident in the top flange at the root of one notches. I have since had a reinforcing plate welded across the whole region to strengthen the area to prevent any further damage.
It may be worth considering this if you are concerned, let me know if you want any pics of the mod I had done.

[alan.barker]

Hi Richard,
thanks for the info. I fitted the stainless manifold about 13 years ago on my Sprint.
When i cut the notch i made sure that it has nice smooth slow radii with a half round file.
I removed the engine to change the clutch a few days ago and touch wood there are no cracks. But after you saying this i'm going to have a very close look. Maybe there is less flex on a baby chassis than a +2 chassis.
Alan

[Quart Meg Miles]

Aha, I was about to start a thread asking for the position and size of the chassis cut out as I am about to fit a four-branch. The whole engine bay is free at the moment, apart from the gearbox, so it would be a good time to do it. Perhaps it depends on who supplies the pipes?

All I need is the start distance behind the engine mount and the total length and depth, if anyone could oblige. I assume a constant radius is sufficient.

[alan.barker]

Hi Meg,
i bought the stainless manifolds and "Y" piece from SJSPORTSCARS in 2004. I had a little problem with the "Y" piece to correct faulty welding and a leak. I put the engine back in last week and i didn't think at the time to measure the notch in the chassis. Photo below and measure is from rear edge of engine mount lug, about 1 cms deep. It's n?2 pipe that touched the chassis on my car

Alan

[nmauduit]

Alan, my +2 had a SS exhaust manifold fitted before I bought it and the galvanised chassis had been notched in two places to provide clearance. This sounds a bit like the issue you have with your car. I was concerned that this mod would create stress raisers and sure enough on v. close examination a crack was evident in the top flange at the root of one notches. I have since had a reinforcing plate welded across the whole region to strengthen the area to prevent any further damage.
It may be worth considering this if you are concerned, let me know if you want any pics of the mod I had done.

an other option when creating room for headers is folding the horizontal flat of the frame like a box rather than just removing material, so that the same width sheet metal is still there, only going downward instead of horizontally. This avoids to create a large variation of strength which would result in weakness points somewhere. Since I wanted about 3/4" room on mine, I cut 2 slits of that width, bent downward the 3 portions (the main being rectangular and the 2 extremities triangular, tapering off over an inch or so) of the chassis to make the desired room, then welded 2 triangles of sheet metal to fill the gaps and restore the spreading of efforts.

[ElanDNA]

Hi

I've bent down the chassis rail, when I've fitted a Tony Thompson manifold. It was in 1992. To date al is ok.
No stress for the chassis and strong enough.

Urs

[alan.barker]

Hi Urs,
nice job and no welding which is a big ++ when the chassis is a Lotus galvanised chassis
A little more distortion
Alan