Cam cover gasket.
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Hawksfield wrote:Hi
Stuck my cork gasket to the cover with Permatex aviation forma gasket No3, when set, oil the gasket face before fitting
completely oil tight every time and easy to remove
Thats my technique also- works well, does not squeeze out the gasket and you can easily remove the cam cover when needed and reuse the gasket as long as you dont tighten it down excessively
cheers
Rohan
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rgh0 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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+1 re the Cometic cam cover gasket. I had high hopes after the very good experience of a cometic thermostat housing gasket (small thing, but I change the thermostat seasonally). The cam cover version leaked appallingly from the from the front, specifically the half moon area. I don't think it can cope with the surface variation that the cork one can. Binned & back with a cork gasket + silicone. The answer is always keep a couple of spare cork gaskets to hand. 30 quid for a rubber version is steep, & I don't need one just yet. Interested in a long term report though.
Jeremy
Jeremy
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JJDraper - Coveted Fifth Gear
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This eBay seller does not specify the grade of rubber, so I would be a little cautious about its compatibility with the oil you use. I bought my gasket in Viton from a local gasket cutter, but as my project is not finished I cannot say if it will seal.
I tested viton and nitrile rubbers in hot oil. Nitrile was badly affected viton appears fine. I wish I new what rubber is used on spin off oil filters.
Richard Hawkins
I tested viton and nitrile rubbers in hot oil. Nitrile was badly affected viton appears fine. I wish I new what rubber is used on spin off oil filters.
Richard Hawkins
- RichardHawkins
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The silicone rubber gaskets being sold on E-bay for other cars don't have a very good record. At first glance one would think them superior but from what I've heard they have a tendency to squeeze out. If these are the same I'd avoid them. I use three bond on the cover side and grease on the head side of the cork gasket. Three Bond sticks better than silicone sealer and doesn't require as long to set up as form-a-gasket.
Kurt.
Kurt.
- nomad
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I?ve found the best way to create an oil tight cam cover is to glue the gasket to the cover. This process also allows multiple reuse of the gasket as it stays glued to the cover on removal. I also remove a section of the gasket at the back, between the cams, to create a slot for a screwdriver to be slotted in to pry the cover loose. My process is;
- Use Permatex ?form a gasket? (grey silicon) to glue the gasket to the cover and leave overnight to cure. I turn it over, right side up, and weight it down.
- On assembly I use Permatex non-hardening gasket cement between the gasket and the head.
- I use alloy ?D? plugs as opposed to rubber. Fitted with the grey silicon they never leak.
I?ve used this process for over 20 years with great success with no oil leaks and limited gasket purchases. A solid cork gasket works best. I don?t use the Burton gasket as it has a layer of alum foil between the cork which delaminates when you try and remove the cover thus ruining the gasket.
- Use Permatex ?form a gasket? (grey silicon) to glue the gasket to the cover and leave overnight to cure. I turn it over, right side up, and weight it down.
- On assembly I use Permatex non-hardening gasket cement between the gasket and the head.
- I use alloy ?D? plugs as opposed to rubber. Fitted with the grey silicon they never leak.
I?ve used this process for over 20 years with great success with no oil leaks and limited gasket purchases. A solid cork gasket works best. I don?t use the Burton gasket as it has a layer of alum foil between the cork which delaminates when you try and remove the cover thus ruining the gasket.
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europatek - Second Gear
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RichardHawkins wrote:This eBay seller does not specify the grade of rubber, so I would be a little cautious about its compatibility with the oil you use.
This is an important point. Even main stream suppliers are not immune to dodgy rubber/plastic formulations. The attached pictures show what happened to a set of half moons I bought from a respected midlands supplier after a year or so in use compared to a new one. I have subsequently used the same items from the same supplier with no problem... I guess they changed suppliers.. I used the same oils throughout - synth & semi synth, grades to match season.
Jeremy
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JJDraper - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Do you think some seals are designed to swell? I only say that as i had some issues getting my Carbs to seal using Viton o rings, i visited my local Weber specialist for advice who told me to sack the Viton seals and use Rubber ones. His reason for this was the fuel makes the seal swell and the knock on effect is they seal much better but the down side is they have to be replaced every time the carbs come off.
I have to admit i went with his advice and my carbs sealed perfectly first time. Just made me think that maybe some rubber seals are supposed to swell??
I have to admit i went with his advice and my carbs sealed perfectly first time. Just made me think that maybe some rubber seals are supposed to swell??
Chris
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Grizzly - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Grizzly wrote:Do you think some seals are designed to swell?
With 'cork' I would assume the wine makers have known that for centuries............
With rubber well I could only say 'maybe'.(well the Chinese ones swell in the post) ......there are available today many after market additives specifically designed to assist in swelling rubber to help any fluid leaks. However as fuel additives have changed over the years it has had some devistating effects especially on carburettor rubbers and lead to many engine fires so rubber has had its ups and downs. If I recall my history correctly Britain owned within the British Empire the 'rubber world' but we gave it to the Americans to pay back the debt of supporting us with WW11.
That aside...... I have known of many engines ruined when silicone has been used sealing cam gaskets. The problem is silicone comes in many chemical structures and some will break down with fuel/oil and others remain solid so have broken up inside the cam cover and blocked oil/waterways.
RTV is a good modern substance for gaskets as was 'hermitite' common many years ago as any excess inside would disolve. However to just refer to 'silicone' makes me think someone may go down to the local hardware store and pick up a tube for a couple of pounds.............just beware of the potential consequences
- Wickey
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Sea Ranch wrote:Kurt, what Three Bond product are you suggesting?
I'm using the case sealant 1184 but after a look on Amazon where I purchased it I think the 1194 would be closer to the Yamaha case bond I used for years. I'm not a fan of silicone gasket sealant regardless of who makes it. Except for the thin windshield sealant which I've kind of fallen in love with. Permatex 81730.
Kurt.
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I too dislike using silicone or RTV on the cam cover. I'm paranoid about it getting the oilways and elsewhere and hate having to scrape it off when I'm doing a gasket change. For a few years now I've been using Wellseal on the gasket with RTV only on the half moons and I don't have any leaks. Had to instruct Paul Matty's to use it when they did my water pump as I know they prefer silicone.
It's been so long now since I've had the cover off that I can't remember for certain but I think I only put the wellseal on the cover side and left the head side dry... I think a lot of leaks arise from the cam cover faces not being perfectly flat.
Robbie
It's been so long now since I've had the cover off that I can't remember for certain but I think I only put the wellseal on the cover side and left the head side dry... I think a lot of leaks arise from the cam cover faces not being perfectly flat.
Robbie
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Robbie693 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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