Advice, good ideas needed, PLEASE HELP!

PostPost by: el-saturn » Sat Aug 06, 2016 4:19 pm

...........had to pull the engine to finally get rid of an oil leek:
a) step 1: the usual emptying of liquids
b) head off and thereafter the block out: easier this way
c) besides the point: head now also has proper valve clearance on EX side (0,28 Ex +/- 0,05 mm)
d) reassembled everything, turning of the engine with cams etc. was normal with a wrench
e) put the engine back in with no problems and added fluids etc..
e1) clutch pedal needs a bit more power than before
f) started to retrieve oil pressure
g) HOWEVER: the starter only turned 3-4 revolutions and immediately lost power
h) we tried a very large powerful (12V) battery and it wouldn't turn as it should
i) turning the engine via crank with a wrench (spanner, excuse me) also requires much more force than before
g) the starter is and turns as normal when out of the car??
i) the relais (solenoid) works --- but could consume power??
j) clutch takes/needs more pedal pressure
k) you can't hear anything and the valves don't touch the pistons
l) i have about 1:11,3 compression
PLEASE add your ideas, i have some ideas but i'll add them later: not to influence you: THANKS IN ADVANCE sandy
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PostPost by: Grizzly » Sat Aug 06, 2016 5:13 pm

Good connection on the engine mount ground strap? Have you tried turning it over with the pugs out by hand to see if some thing is binding? and did you notice if the Dowels where present between the engine and box?
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PostPost by: vincereynard » Sat Aug 06, 2016 7:57 pm

I may well be talking toss but going by your "mechanical " symptoms -

e1) clutch pedal needs a bit more power than before
i) turning the engine via crank with a wrench (spanner, excuse me) also requires much more force than before
g) the starter is and turns as normal when out of the car??
i) the relais (solenoid) works --- but could consume power??
j) clutch takes/needs more pedal pressurei

I would suggest a misalignment between the engine and the box.

As I think Grizzly was suggesting
Grizzly wrote: and did you notice if the Dowels where present between the engine and box?


Vince
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PostPost by: el-saturn » Sun Aug 07, 2016 5:31 am

thanks grizzly: which dowels do you mean; sandy??
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PostPost by: el-saturn » Sun Aug 07, 2016 5:35 am

thanks vince - if the box and engine-mating was like normal, HOW and where can you misalign something - a.a.m.o.f.: i also suspect the clutch/box area!! sandy
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Sun Aug 07, 2016 8:24 am

The are two hollow dowels that align the gearbox and engine. The lower bolts between the engine and gear box go through them on each side. If these are missing you could get mkjsalignment

cheers
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PostPost by: Grizzly » Sun Aug 07, 2016 8:26 am

Note. This is a picture i've just pulled off Google so if it's anyone's on here i hope you don't mind me using it.

If the two dowels are missing for what ever reason it is possible for the gearbox to be slightly twisted.
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alignment-dowels-bellhousing.jpg and
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PostPost by: Grizzly » Sun Aug 07, 2016 9:11 am

Not sure if it would make any difference but did you fit the closing plate between the engine and box?
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PostPost by: steve.thomas » Sun Aug 07, 2016 10:05 am

Could the crankshaft spigot bearing have siezed or been damaged when mating the engine and gearbox?
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PostPost by: terryp » Sun Aug 07, 2016 10:27 am

Could the clutch drive plate just be ever so slightly misaligned and it will sort itself after a good crank / run?

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PostPost by: el-saturn » Sun Aug 07, 2016 12:38 pm

THANKS FELLAS!! ................not being a masochist, i was hoping for: answers/ideas which were contrary to my own conclusions. they weren't!! i didn't ever have those dowels and never needed them. we were 3 people (or 3 mp for monkey power) making stuff go quickly, instead of cautiuosly - WHAT ELSE may be broken??? it turned 10 times (3 revolutions per trial) altogether! if it's only the spigot, then (other than the 5hrs!!) its OK tx sandy
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PostPost by: oldchieft » Sun Aug 07, 2016 9:36 pm

Sounds to me like something broken in the gear box, bulk ring seized on a gear cone?

Can you shift all gears?

Or clutch arm misplaced? but in that case you would likely have nasty noises.

Disconnect the prop shaft and see if it turns then.

The old chestnut of the driven plate the wrong way round is hard to do these days.

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PostPost by: Elan45 » Mon Aug 08, 2016 1:54 pm

Could the 'D' spacer link have fallen out of place between the clutch TO bearing and the arm and fallen into an interference between flywheel and something rigid like engine block.
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PostPost by: autoxnut » Sat Aug 13, 2016 2:52 am

Pull plugs and check for fluid in cylinders. Is cam timing correct?
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PostPost by: el-saturn » Sat Aug 13, 2016 9:29 pm

i hate to admit: while talking to my mechanic friend (engine on a kart) and unaware of camshaft tolerances, i just added maybe another kg of torque (2,2 vs 1,2) because it felt wrong. while the engine was out i looked into the manual and noticed: why don't u a-hole don't u look where others know!!! i hate myself sometimes sandy ---- did u see my latest issue: mayonaise!!!!!!
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