Quick engine removal and replace - Tips & Tricks (wanted)

[terryp]

OK depending on how the next few weeks go I may have to remove the engine to grease the main shaft splines and check the clutch, so not really a big job once the engine is out.
Has anyone any tips or tricks to make the in and out easy. I haven't done this before with the body on and I thought I would leave the gearbox in place due to height restrictions in my garage.
I had a Ginetta G15 for 17 years and use to take the engine and gearbox out in an hour or so and have it back in the same........ I don't think this will be as quick.
The car has federal cross over pipes, cast iron manifold, strombergs,

Thanks
Terry

[Elanconvert]

hi terry
I'm new to elans, so can't give you any tips on engine removal.....however, from what I've read on this site, there are two camps [1] it's easier to take out engine and box in one go [2] it's no problem taking out the engine without the box......if I ever have to do 'engine out', I think I would probably opt for [1]
interesting to read about your G15 ownership...I've had mine for 40 years!!!

fred

[terryp]

Fred
I think that's because when you have a G15 you always take out the engine with the box
We're you in the GOC? I came to a few meetings with Mark S and exhibited the car at Brighton so was there with Steve F and Dr Rob G
I do seem to remember a Fred at Godstone once or twice?
I do regret selling mine but I do have a Caterham that takes my mind off it!
All the best
Terry

[rgh0]

My basic process as follows: The order makes access to the next items easier. If you dont have a hoist support the car properly and safely on stands so you can access both top and underneath and still have headroom to lift the engine and under car access for the engine hoist legs if you use that type of device to lift the engine

1. Disconnect battery
2. Drain radiator and remove along with hoses and electric fan
3. Remove dizzy cap and wires from coil for easier access and remove carbs as complete unit held together by air box. You can leave them on but it gives easier access later on I find to remove them..
4. Remove alternator / generator and heater hoses and heater control cable and oil pressure tube and temperature capillary tube.
5. Support engine with hoist or jack and remove engine mounts and exhaust.manifold. I also remove roll bar and removable cross brace under engine for easier access.
6. Remove starter and disconnect fuel line to pump if you have the mechanical pump still.
7. Remove clutch pipe and bottom plate on bell housing
8. Remove top 2 bellhousing bolts and raise the front of the engine as high as you can so nose is clearing the front cross member. Support under the gear box in this position with a jack or stand
9. Remove remaining bellhousing bolts on each side and pull engine free of dowels to bell housing and GB input shaft and lift out

A couple of hours if every thing goes smoothly !

cheers
Rohan

[69S4]

I suspect Rohan takes his engine out more times in a week than I ever have ( ) but for what it's worth I'm with him in the take the engine out separately camp. The one time I tried it with the gearbox attached was not an experience I want to repeat - not with the facilities I have available in my garage anyway. It's a lot easier if you strip the engine right down - remove the head etc, but that might be a bit excessive just to grease the gearbox shaft.
Oh, and don't forget the reversing light switch wires, I seem to snap them every time.

[rgh0]

I don't do it that often --- but engine coming out of the Plus 2 last weekend

cheers
Rohan

[terryp]

Thanks Stuart and Rohan - Perfect!
Just for info I have a beam accross the garage and a Block and Tackle thing

Rohan , as its strombergs how do I get access leaving the air box on to remove the nuts? (and at what point - carbs or O ring holders) It all seems pretty tight.
With the exhaust as I have a cast iton manifold, do I have to remove it? The problem I have is the bolts joining the manifold to the first pipe are very difficult even though I hace changed them to Stainless Hex. But I know from my water pump problem that I can't remove the first pipe and manifold as one piece.

Thanks

Terry

[terryp]

Rohan
Thanks for the picture, I note that you are lifting it via the head. I have a large strap , where do you think is the best place to strap it bearing in mind its a Stromberg engine.

Cheers
Terry

[rgh0]

On an standard engine I sling around the centre 2 carb inlets and the water thermostat housing as this holds the engine stable but enables it to be tilted as you remove it. On a ported head with "thin" inlets I would take the sling down to the engine mount or around the bottom. With a Stromberg head I would sling around the Siamese inlets. Sling hard up against the head not out at the end of the inlets

With the cast manifold once you have the engine mounts off you should be able to remove it and drop it straight down if you have a removable cross brace underneath with the rest of the system still attached. Without a removable cross brace you need to disconnect it from the rest of the exhaust so you can rotate it as you drop it down I think. Using socket headed cap screws rather than studs into the head makes removal much easier

I would remove the carbs and the mounting block at the head itself as a single unit . Cant remember what access is like as I have not done a Stromberg engine removal in about 30 years but it cant be worse than removing the Webers which is easy once the radiator is removed by reaching in from the front using a short open ended spanner for the underneath bolts


cheers
Rohan
cheers
Rohan

[terryp]

Thanks again Rohan

[Elanconvert]

Fred
I think that's because when you have a G15 you always take out the engine with the box
We're you in the GOC? I came to a few meetings with Mark S and exhibited the car at Brighton so was there with Steve F and Dr Rob G
I do seem to remember a Fred at Godstone once or twice?
I do regret selling mine but I do have a Caterham that takes my mind off it!
All the best
Terry

terry
no, never been to brighton or godstone,but still a member of goc.......

anyway, I told you I know little about elans, as illustrated by rohan, so you should definitely go with his advice!!!

fred

[terryp]

Fred
What about Sandown Park (Esher) Kit Car show , I'm sure I've met a Fred who had a Ginetta G15 for a long time although it may have only been 15 years at that time!
I suppose I'm almost an Elan convert ....... the Jury is still out!

All the best
Terry

[stugilmour]

Terry, maybe Rohan and other Elan guys can clarify.

I understand from other threads that the heater valve has to be removed on the Elan? The Plus 2 has an elbow instead of a coolant valve, so no issue. I see Rohan mentions the control cable and temp capillary tube, so assuming he leaves the valve in place?

Just curious on this; I know on the Plus 2 this area of the engine is where you have to really pay attention to prevent contact with the body.

HTH

Stu

[terryp]

Stu
I think the heater valve has to come off if the body is lifted over the engine , not the engine over the body ....... I think

Terry

[billwill]

Stu
I think the heater valve has to come off if the body is lifted over the engine , not the engine over the body ....... I think

Terry

It's very difficult, possibly impossible to get the heater valve off with the engine bolted in with its head on, because it impacts on the top of the foot well (on an Elan, dunno about a Plus 2).

That's why I moved my heater valve to the front hole of the thermostat housing and put the temp-gauge bulb sensor in the rear hole.