Lotus Elan and Lotus Elan Plus 2 Forums

Always happy to be proved wrong - you only learn by making mistakes

That will teach me ( again) to not do stuff from my failing memory but to look it up. I had diligently copied the Cosworth specs you had previously posted and thought I had it memorised but the timing quoted at 10 thou but clearance specs slighly less fooled me. At least thats my excuse and i am sticking with it

If you have the original Cosworth cams then set them to the Cosworth specs but if they are copies (and most are by now) then be careful what you set them to and if any doubt get them checked by a competent cam grinder to verify the profile and clearance setting.

cheers
Rohan

Have just picked up the Mk 16 short motor components from the machine shop.

Now to get onto freshening up the cylinder head!!

The new and the old, or more particularly, the 1965 original and the 1966 update (with go faster bits added and to be inserted in more recent times!)

James,

Not everyday one sees mention of a Cosworth BDJ motor. I would think most came to the USA, for use in SCCA's FC. That's why I have one that was used in my '76 Modus ex-F3 car.

I have given some thought to building a questionable formula junior motor out of a BDJ. But then you must be building something that doesn't need to claim heritage to a 105 or 109E block.

I had to do the same sort of relief work on my last FJ motor with a Farndon crank. Sure does spin nice now.

Roger

Roger

Besides being besotted with Ford Lotus Twin Cam engines, our Elfin 300 Sports Racer has a Holbay S65 pushrod Anglia headed 120E block with Laystall crank at 50.65mm throw for an all up capacity of 1150cc.

I've banged on about it at considerable length on the thread listed below - post 18 on the first page and then post 79 on the second page.

http://forums.autosport.com/index.php?s ... =0&start=0


In building the Holbay "clone" to run as a second engine I've used a BDJ crank and had it's nose ground down to accept the 1500 spec crank gear for the cam drive in much the same way that the "BDA" (or narrow pin BD series) crank which I think is a Farndon one, at a 72.75mm throw for the Twin Cam motor has been modified to 1500 specs for the crank chain sprocket for the Mk 16 clone.

The Holbay clone motor will hopefully rev very freely! - And, yes, it does feel good to be able to put the 5 bearing block and crank under the Anglia head without having to feel guilty!!!

James

So far so good, whilst using the original spacer plate, which'll retain an outward period look, the smaller flywheel seems to marry up with the offset starter motor at first blush.





- I've been spurred into action upon receiving the head and pistons for this motor. So shall start putting it together in earnest now.

To that end, the CP pistons arrived complete with 827 x 063 SWL wire locks. I'd rather use the Kramm-Lox versions, "Sure Lox" 827 x 063 - SLX. (Cause they are supposed to be easier to instal and the have a non rotation detent built into the piston.)

I don't suppose they Kramm Lox ones are readily available in Melbourne? - Silly me left the preferred set in Tassie last weekend!!!!!

Plugging away, "racifying" a few more bits as well last weekend - this was more fun than making a stepped key to match a stepped keyway.........

This combo of pistons and rods gets pretty close to the top of the block.

Got bolts with small enough heads to drive in and still clear the clutch.

Shame about the washers.

Am considering filing flats onto them.

Retainers in the new head look lighter than the originals!!

Repainted the original cam cover and matched a second one. Now need a second engine plate (and PBR #207 breather tube)!!!

The dowel carrying hole for the sprocket in one of the camshafts for the new cylinder head is too tight to accept a dowel, it appears to have missed getting it's reaming!!!!

I suppose I can determine correct reamer by measuring off a dowel if I can't find the size by looking it up.

This one's a shot of Garrie Cooper's personal engine as installed in his Mono circa 1966.

SJ Lambert wrote:The dowel carrying hole for the sprocket in one of the camshafts for the new cylinder head is too tight to accept a dowel, it appears to have missed getting it's reaming!!!!

I suppose I can determine correct reamer by measuring off a dowel if I can't find the size by looking it up.

Good news is - I got the correct sized reamer.

The bad is that the dowel hole is too hard for me to make any impression. Might be easier to reduce the dowels, or one or two of them. I could time it without a dowel (I reckon the bolt alone would clamp it well enough ) get the relationship of dowel hole to sprocket hole & then slim down the appropriate dowel ........ did I begin this diatribe saying this would be the easy option?!?!

My fix would be to drill and tap the sprocket for a alan grub screw.

When the timing is set drill the face of the cam and put the screw in.

Jon the Chief