Lotus Elan

Starter motor removal

PostPost by: sneadd » Sat Nov 26, 2011 11:59 am

I need to re-condition the starter on my 72 sprint. Can anyone tell me what is the easiest way of removing it is please?
David S
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PostPost by: garyeanderson » Sat Nov 26, 2011 12:17 pm

Bring it to someone that has done it is the easiest way.

That said you will need a 9/16 inch socket, a 12 inch extrension, a 6 inch extrension, the ratchet and a 7/16 combination wrench.

From
elan-f14/odd-starting-issues-t22106-15.html

"I have had the ratchets out with the 6 inch extension followed by the 12 inch extension and a 9/16 socket to get access to the top bolt and then slide under to tighten the bottom bolt with a 9/16 box. There are also 8 connection points where you can loose continuity, 2 on the Battery, chassis to battery cable, chassis to engine ground, engine ground to engine, starter motor connection, two sides of the solenoid, any one of them can burn you. If you have a shut off/kill switch add 2 more. I know the drill, I just don't think you should need to do it"
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PostPost by: oldelanman » Sat Nov 26, 2011 12:40 pm

Hi David,
You need to work from under the car so the easiest way is to put it on a ramp, if you don't have access to that then jack it up as high as you can and support it on stands. As Gary says you will need a ratchet and extension to reach the top one of the two bolts. A word of caution though the lower bell housing bolt is right next to the top bolt and it's the same size (9/16) so when you're working by feel it's easy to take out the wrong one!
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PostPost by: billwill » Sat Nov 26, 2011 3:02 pm

I usually use a socket then a 6" bar, then a universal joint, then a 12" bar and finally a T bar to loosen it, then a rachet for the bulk of the unscrewing.
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PostPost by: sneadd » Sat Nov 26, 2011 5:38 pm

Thanks guys i'll let you know how I get on. Feared it wouldn't be straightforward!
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PostPost by: billwill » Sat Nov 26, 2011 11:05 pm

sneadd wrote:Thanks guys i'll let you know how I get on. Feared it wouldn't be straightforward!



It's not too bad.

Don't forget to disconnect the battery first and then the thick cable to the electric connector on the starter, before you try to undo the securing bolts.

Leave the lower bolt in, but loose, until after you have taken out the upper bolt (to stop the starter motor falling on your head). Then carefully remove the lower bolt, while you are well way under the sump or under left side of the car if you have long arms.
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PostPost by: twincamman » Sat Nov 26, 2011 11:44 pm

While the starter is out replace the top bolt with a stud . It makes starter replacement a snap and keeps the starter out of your teeth and off your fore head ...TA DA.....ed
dont close your eyes --you will miss the crash
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PostPost by: StressCraxx » Sun Nov 27, 2011 4:12 am

twincamman wrote:While the starter is out replace the top bolt with a stud . It makes starter replacement a snap and keeps the starter out of your teeth and off your fore head ...TA DA.....ed


My compliments! Great idea. I replaced my POD unit with a Gustofson/Denso unit. Now it sounds like I'm cranking a Honda Civic, but it always starts, just like a Civic....

Regards,
Dan
There is no cure for Lotus, only treatment.
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PostPost by: elanner » Sun Nov 27, 2011 1:04 pm

When I fitted my Gustafson Nippondenso starter last weekend I found that its slightly smaller size allowed me to squeeze my hand between the end of it and the engine mount and put the top bolt in quite easily.

Putting the Lucas unit back without a stud (good idea!) must be a miserable experience.

Nick
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PostPost by: billwill » Sun Nov 27, 2011 7:35 pm

twincamman wrote:While the starter is out replace the top bolt with a stud . It makes starter replacement a snap and keeps the starter out of your teeth and off your fore head ...TA DA.....ed



How do you get the stud to stay in, the next time you take the motor out?

(since presumably you use a Nyloc nut on the stud to secure the motor.)
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PostPost by: twincamman » Sun Nov 27, 2011 9:32 pm

blue loc tite there Bill if your hole is worn :wink: other wise they stay put just like a a head stud or exhaust stud ----ed
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PostPost by: richardcox_lotus » Sat Jul 21, 2018 7:27 pm

Resurrecting this thread as I attempted to remove mine today. Absolutely no luck with the top bolt.

Will attempt to get a different set of extension bars this week, unless anyone else has some bright ideas

Regards
Richard
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sun Jul 22, 2018 7:18 am

I take the top bolt out from above and slide the extensions+ universal joint+ 9/16 AF socket from front of engine.
I put some adhesive tape around the universal joint to stop it being too universal :roll: .
Sometimes i can remove the top bolt in 5 minutes and other times i struggle for a long time to get the socket on the bolt head. It can be a pig of a job.

Good luck Alan
The order i use is socket-universal-long extension-short extension-ratchet
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Sun Jul 22, 2018 10:14 am

No need for the universal if the two extensions are the 'wobbly' type, ie, the small part that goes into
the socket (or next extension) allows movement
https://www.harborfreight.com/9-pc-wobb ... 61278.html

I was R&R'ing the starter recently on my coupe which not yet had the carbs
installed and still managed to get the bellhousing bolt out instead of the starter
bolt.

To answer BillWill's question in the previously linked thread about keeping the stud in. When
using lock washers instead of a locknut, the stud should stay in.

I'm sticking with bolts. And the OEM starter.
Greg Z
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PostPost by: Foxie » Sun Jul 22, 2018 11:24 am

I changed to a Gustavson /Brize type starter many years ago.

I changed the 9/16" hex head bolts for equivalent thread caps screws.

I made up an exact length extension to reach the upper cap screw from underneath the car.

Makes removing/changing the starter a doddle. :)
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p7220135.jpg and
Last edited by Foxie on Sun Jul 22, 2018 11:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
68 Elan +2, 70 Elan +2s
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