temperature bulb seal?

PostPost by: Emma-Knight » Fri Nov 18, 2005 4:06 pm

:roll: when fitting the temperature takeoff bulb to the engine, the manual
shows a seal ring on the "behind dash page" - its not mentioned
anywhere in the lists. Though it could make sense...
Any opinions about this?
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PostPost by: ElliottN » Mon Nov 21, 2005 1:03 pm

Sorry - don't follow. What car (Elan or +2), what manual (section, page) and what "lists"?

rgds.
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PostPost by: Emma-Knight » Mon Nov 21, 2005 1:14 pm

it's for the Elan S2 engine (normal twincam Mk I)
The workshop manual page is in the electrical section or part
list page "EL". It shows the behind dash scenery with the heater support
and instrument backs

regards Anna
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PostPost by: wildoliver » Mon Nov 21, 2005 1:31 pm

Could it be a grommit for the bulkhead?

I fit lots of the temp gauges to Mg's and they come with a split grommit to fit in a hole in the bulkhead and stop the very delicate capiliary tube chaffing or shorting out on the bulkhead.
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PostPost by: ElliottN » Mon Nov 21, 2005 1:56 pm

Anna - from my review of the EL diagram I assume you're referring to the rubber o-ring which slides on to the gauge body and sits between the gauge bezel and the front of the dash?

These are very fine (thickness wise) and were supplied with (all) the Smiths gauges as fitted to Elans. Replacing them can be a challenge (try a Smiths instrument specialist) but don't lose any sleep if you don't have them - you are not alone.

rgds,
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PostPost by: Emma-Knight » Mon Nov 21, 2005 2:15 pm

so will the bulb sit in the Engine without any
additional seal (rubber "o" or copper)?

Anna
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PostPost by: ElliottN » Mon Nov 21, 2005 2:46 pm

OK - now I can see (sorry - domestic blindness!).

My sending bulb does NOT have the washer, however...

It's in an S4. There is a brass insert screwed into the head takeoff point and the bulb is locked into that and self seals as the collar is tightened (rather like the way a gas regulator is fitted onto a gas bottle take off). Your setup may be different.

Only suggestion I can make is to try it. If it doesn't seat and/or leaks - you'll need the (brass) washer. A plumbing shop should be able to supply a washer of a suitable size.
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PostPost by: types26/36 » Mon Nov 21, 2005 2:55 pm

Anna,
I think there is some confusion here, prevous posters have refered to:
1. a grommet in the bulkhead (to prevent the pipe chaffing)
2. the "o" ring that goes over the gauge (cushions the gauge against the dash)
I think you are refering to the bulb location in the head.
I have seen a couple of different fittings but usually there is a brass fitting screwed into the head which has a copper or fibre washer to seal it, the bulb then pushes into this fitting and is held in place by a gland nut screwed onto the brass fitting. It should not be nessesary to have an other seal on this, I usually coat the threads and the bulb with copperslip as they tend to stick when removed, it breaks the pipe then you have more problems.
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PostPost by: wildoliver » Mon Nov 21, 2005 3:02 pm

I concur on this, washer on head adaptor (although they tend not to leak even if not fitted) And no washer required on bulb. the Bulb has a collar that crushes slightly to provide a good seal.
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PostPost by: marcfuller » Mon Nov 21, 2005 3:08 pm

referring to the rubber o-ring which slides on to the gauge body and sits between the gauge bezel and the front of the dash?


Holden has them and other gauge parts. You can order over the web.
-Marc '66 Elan DHC (36/6025)
http://www.lotuselan.us
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PostPost by: Emma-Knight » Mon Nov 21, 2005 4:02 pm

Thank You very much.
And coppaslip is a good idea, too.

(it's also a nice idea to have those little instrument/dash
rings fitted)
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PostPost by: mark030358 » Mon Nov 21, 2005 10:49 pm

got a part no for this from holden? Mine is in ally and not too good a condition
cheers
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