Heater rebuild

[Robbie693]

Heater is back together, biggest problem was getting the arms back on the flap splines. I tried for hours to get the fine splines to line up to no avail - I ended up knocking them on with a mallet, cringing while I did so.

There was a bit of play in the lower flap after this so I had to drill through and put a pin in, more as a precaution than anything else.

Has anyone else had this problem? Are they an interference fit and supposed to cut their own splines in the soft alloy of the levers?

As promised, here are the pics of my modification:

[mikealdren]

Robbie,
Looks a lovely job. I've a few questions to learn from your experience.

I've been trying to repair mine without taking the levers off the flaps but there are parts I can't get at to derust so I may take them off now - how did you get them off - did you heat them up at all? I've thought about supporting the levers and punching out the central rod but not had the nerve to do it.

How did you get on with the rubber flap seals from Woolies, did you fit them in the original grooves?

The paint job also looks good too - did you use an aerosol?

regards
Mike

[Robbie693]

Hi Mike,

Yes, the levers were removed using a punch on the end of the flap shafts - came off no problem, as I say the problem was getting them on again, particularly in the correct place to ensure proper leverage throughout the range of motion.

The flap seals were attached as per original, under the retaining plates with double sided tape and riveted. Because the rubber I used was a bit thicker (1mm thick) than the original stuff, I had problems getting a smooth motion as the flap travels from inside the box to outside - the stiffer rubber was causing it to bind as it won't bend like the original stuff.

I had to assemble everything together and judisciously trim the strips a bit at a time to ensure they sealed but didn't bind. A surgical scalpel helped a lot.

The paint was from an aerosol - Hammerite Direct To Rust satin black. I had problems getting a smooth finish at first, the nozzle was rubbish and gave me a splattered finish (as you can see in the pic of the inside face). I used a nozzle off another spray can I knew was good and the rest of the paintwork came out smoothly.

The foam stuff you so kindly sent me was attached with double sided carpet tape - very sticky stuff, I hope it lasts!

Cheers

Robbie

[mikealdren]

Well the end result looks really good. Did you manage to get replacement screws from somewhere, they look new?

Mike

[Robbie693]

Thanks Mike,

Yes, after years of working in the motor industry and walking around car plants my Dad has amassed a large collection of odd fasteners discarded off the production lines..

They're self tapping screws about 1/2" long - I had to shorten a couple to stop them snagging on the flaps.

I like shiny bits!

[kcrossle]

I've dropped out of this conversation for a while because I couldn't find any materials and I was going to make this a future project. Nice job of posting by all the contributors though!

But. I put the heater back in (simply cleaned and repainted) and discovered a new challenge. The back of the motor - the furthest forward bit - presses against the cowl / bulhead to such a degree the fibreglass is cracked. Now, there aren't many ways that one can screw this up so I thought I'd better ask here.

There are simply four brackets / bolt-holes in the heater and four bobbins in the body. Align, screw in, tighten, done! Clearly not the case.

Are there washers or spacers between the heater and the body / bobbin? The shop manual hints at that but I'm not sure.

While I'm at it - does anyone have experience in installing a shut-off valve in the heater hose. My relaxed attitude to rebuilding the seals was because I will not drive the car in a N. American winter. But in summer I don't want hot air blowing over me.

Thanks

Keith

[rdssdi]

kieth

The heater is secured with rubber. These doughnut like rubber mounts have a metal sleeve inside. The bolts tighten the sleeve to the bobbin. The rubber doughnuts have a groove around the circumference that slips into the heater mounting tabs.

Bob

[Robbie693]

Hi Keith,

There should be a rubber sealing ring around the hole where the fan blades are. This seals the aperture between the heater and the body - if missing this may be why the fan is going too far into the cowl.

[rdssdi]

Keith

My +2, a California car, had a heater valve mounted on the head such as other Elans. I though that was normal for the car and replaced the valve as part of the restoration. After that I realized that the +2 did not have this feature. Apparently this was a PO or dealer fix to stop heat in the summer. The temp cable goes to the valve lever and there is only one lever on the heater. That being for the damper. I do not see where the other heater lever would fit.

I have replaced everything as was on the car when I received it. I will see how it works when I drive it some distance. That should be next week.

Bob

[jeff jackson]

Hi Robbie,
Have been following the thread. A question if I may.
The disintegrating foam seal, am I right in thinking that the foam you suggest from B&Q is the stuff they sell for the laminate flooring? Or is it the real wood flooring? Luckily I saved the underlay from the Kitchen Laminate flooring job.
Did you have any problem with the heater matrix? Was it bunged up at all?

I have bent the cover to take a DIN Stereo. Yet to put it all back together.

Lovely job BTW, is the heater back in?

Regards
Jeff

[Robbie693]

Hi jeff,

I can't take the credit for finding the stuff - It was Mike Aldren.

I believe it was underlay for solid wood flooring; it's 3mm thick (I think the laminate flooring stuff is thicker?)

My matrix looked fine so I took a chance and left it alone. The problem I had was it was hot all the time so I don't think it was bunged up.

Heater is now back in but I haven't had chance to test it as I am doing the head gasket now

Hope this helps

Cheers

Robbie

[mikealdren]

Jeff,
Some of the underlay is a very open texture foam and looks like it will tear easily. It's fine for flooring but probably not good enough for the Elan.

The stuff I found is for wooden flooring (although I'm not sure that's relevant). It has a closed cell surface and is about 3mm thick (see photo on this thread). I have some left if you drop me a PM with your address.

Mike

[gordonlund]

Guys,

What you are lookin at here is a Ford Cortina Mk 1 /2 heater unit. of at least 40 years of age. In the 60's they were the best heater around and if kept in good nick will take some beating today. Many will have now bunged up with hard water (look at your kettle??) If you are lucky enough to live in a soft water area you will not have this problem.

I took mine out cause one of the pipes came unsoldered in France. Radiator specialist soldered it back in for me and now we are as snug as a bug in rug as me old Gran used to say!!!

Gordon.

Yes I used open cell foam to replace the poor old stuff. It was all I had in the garage at the time. Seems to do the job.

[Bud English]

... Whilst you've got the heater in bits it maybe worth letting in an inset panel into the front to allow you room in the dash for a modern din stereo...... just a thought,if you want some pics, let me know as I've done this.
Mark

I know this is an old thread but Mark's stereo inset idea is a brilliant one.
Nobody ever asked you to post the pictures, Mark, but I could sure use them. My heater is out and totally disassembled. The dash has been hanging on the wall in the garage for ages. I need to know where the stereo cutout in the dash lines up with the heater box when installed. If I had that it's a simple matter to create the inset. I really don't want to reassemble the box and install it to take the measurements, only to remove it again to modify it.

....one of my many small projects while awaiting weather warm enough to lay up fiberglass.

[JJDraper]

re Stereo recess-modification.. This link may be of interest.

http://www.lotuselan.info/october.htm

Jeremy