Removal and rebuilding of a Twincam

[alan.barker]

Rohan,
don't forget to put the Exhaust in the Engine bay tied to one side before you drop the Engine in.
I've even known "Saint Miles" to forget to do that and the Air was blue when someone pointed out his mistake
Thanks great lesson
Alan

[rgh0]

Rohan,
don't forget to put the Exhaust in the Engine bay tied to one side before you drop the Engine in.
I've even known "Saint Miles" to forget to do that and the Air was blue when someone pointed out his mistake
Thanks great lesson
Alan

With TTR race headers not really enough room to put them in first. I fit the engine to the gear box and support the engine with a jack. Then fit the RH engine mount, fit the exhaust and then fit the LH engine mount .

cheers
Rohan

[661]

Rohan,
don't forget to put the Exhaust in the Engine bay tied to one side before you drop the Engine in.
I've even known "Saint Miles" to forget to do that and the Air was blue when someone pointed out his mistake
Thanks great lesson
Alan

Without the engine mounts in the engine bay the engine can be pushed to the carb side and the manifolds put in. This is with the TTR big bore race manifold and the cut out in the chassis.

[alan.barker]

For sure i suppose a personal choice.
I have always attached Exhaust to one side in Engine Bay with String. Then lowered Engine in place with Engine Mounts already fitted. I just find it easier for me.
So many different ways to arrive at the same Goal.
Alan

[2cams70]

Prop shaft in place to be slid onto the gearbox as its fitted

I notice you appear to be using an aftermarket front propshaft yoke. Did you have to shorten the propshaft to allow it to fit properly?

[rgh0]

Prop shaft in place to be slid onto the gearbox as its fitted

I notice you appear to be using an aftermarket front propshaft yoke. Did you have to shorten the propshaft to allow it to fit properly?

If I recall correctly I still have the original front yoke. I certainly have not changed it since I rebuilt the car in 1981 and I don't believe I changed it then, but that's a long time ago and memory plays tricks I have the original unmodified prop shaft as I have never modified or replaced since I bought the car in 1974

I have about 15 to 20mm of clearance to the diff flange if I push the prop shaft fully forward so no clearance issues.

cheers
Rohan

[alan.barker]

Hi Rohan,
I see you have the Hollow Dowels fitted in the Bellhousing.
I fit them in the Block so i can locate the Sandwich Plate and tie it in place using String through two holes. Stops the Sandwich Plate getting in the way when mating Engine with Gearbox.
Cheers
Alan

[rgh0]

Time to put the engine back in, a nice warm 36C day here in Melbourne so I will be sweating while if do this and drinking lots of water.

Lowered engine off the stand and wheeled it out to the engine hoist and lifted it up. The gear box is supported by a jack at the front and angled up as far as it will go. The engine is lowered in and aligned to the gearbox using a ratchet strap. The steel engine to gearbox plate located with a couple of tie wires, I remove these before the engine slides into its final location once the long bolts are fitted

Fit a couple of long bolts to help align the engine and gearbox and with a little jiggling to get the gearbox splines into the clutch plate and the nose of the input shaft into the spigot bearing in the crank the engine slides into place.

Once the gear box is bolted up, I support the front of the engine with the jack I had been using to support the front of the gearbox. I then can disconnect the engine crane and start fitting the exhaust and engine mounts. TTR race exhaust goes in first, I had to remove the heater valve to fit the exhaust... I had forgotten that. Once the exhaust is loosely bolted into place I fit the TTR competition engine mounts

I leave the LH mount loose so I can keep the LH side of the engine jacked up to fit the exhaust manifold gaskets and bolt the exhaust up. Fitting the No4 cylinder gasket and bolts for the TTR manifold is a real pain but it all finally comes together. Socket head screws and a ball headed hex key makes it possible.

Forgot the earth strap on the RH engine mount so had to pull a couple of bolts to fit that

Engine and exhaust in place and sitting on its mounts.

cheers
Rohan

[alan.barker]

Well done Rohan,
you can now take a nice cool Beer
Alan

[rgh0]

Well done Rohan,
you can now take a nice cool Beer
Alan

Yes sitting here having a quiet couple

cheers

[gjz30075]

"I support the front of the engine with the jack......." Is this done with a board across the pan?

[rgh0]

"I support the front of the engine with the jack......." Is this done with a board across the pan?

Yes I use a 50mm thick piece of timber across the front of the pan so the edge carries the load not the flat bottom. The front cross member provides a guide for it and I place the jack directly under the front edge. To control the engine tilt I move the jack to the side I want to lift more

cheers
Rohan

[661]

I agree the manifold studs and nuts are a pain.I elected to maintain the studs, cut them all down to the minimum required to house the TTR now supplied K nuts.
A cut down 3/8s socket and a claw do the job

[alan.barker]

I use Studs also.
Before putting Engine in place i try all Studs to screw in with my Fingers then remove them.
Once Engine in place offer up Manifold and screw in Studs using Fingers and Copperslip on Threads. Secure Manifold with Spring Washers and Brass Nuts
Alan

[pharriso]

Almost there!...

Thank you for all the detail in this post Rohan, I've really been enjoying it. Just about to replace my cylinder head & take a look at what's in the bottom end, so this should prove useful.