Horn sounding when not pressed.
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just recently the horn on my S3 has occasionally sounded at random when the button has not been pressed.
I have checked the clearance between the rotating steering wheel hub and the fixed hub. I am satisfied that they cannot touch and there is no end float on the shaft.
After removing the steering wheel I found that the horn `pencil` internal wire has broken and the brass end piece is loose in the assembly. It needs a new piece of copper wire fitting.
If anyone has this part out will you please measure the overall length so that I can repair this one correctly.
Eric in Burnley
1967 S3SE DHC
- ericbushby
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- Ray419G
- First Gear
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- Joined: 15 Jul 2023
- Location: United Kingdom
Hi Ray,
Thankyou very much for that. When I tried assembling the pencil at 65mm, it seemed a bit too long in my case.
I scaled it off your photo and and decided on a shorter set up, approximately 60mm, which gave a similar appearance. maybe there is a difference between the two.
Soldered the wire in and assembled the steering wheel. It all looks good and works correctly.
Thanks again,
Eric
Thankyou very much for that. When I tried assembling the pencil at 65mm, it seemed a bit too long in my case.
I scaled it off your photo and and decided on a shorter set up, approximately 60mm, which gave a similar appearance. maybe there is a difference between the two.
Soldered the wire in and assembled the steering wheel. It all looks good and works correctly.
Thanks again,
Eric
- ericbushby
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- Location: east lancashire
Eric,
Sorry, I should have added in my original reply that the pencil from my car measured 56mm long, rather than just relying on the photo.
The end that rubs on the fixed contact in the column does look somewhat worn down on my example, and the spring is probably permanently compressed a little bit after all the years in situ, so I suspect it originally started out closer to 60mm in length.
Ray.
Sorry, I should have added in my original reply that the pencil from my car measured 56mm long, rather than just relying on the photo.
The end that rubs on the fixed contact in the column does look somewhat worn down on my example, and the spring is probably permanently compressed a little bit after all the years in situ, so I suspect it originally started out closer to 60mm in length.
Ray.
- Ray419G
- First Gear
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- Joined: 15 Jul 2023
- Location: United Kingdom
Hi Eric,
They are not worth the bother of trying to repair. SJS have them for a few £'s....£5.28+vat.
https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and- ... rchresults
Alan.
They are not worth the bother of trying to repair. SJS have them for a few £'s....£5.28+vat.
https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and- ... rchresults
Alan.
Alan
Currently:-
1971 +2 S130/ 5speed Type 9.
1960 MGA 1600 Mk1 Coupe. 5speed type 9.
Currently:-
1971 +2 S130/ 5speed Type 9.
1960 MGA 1600 Mk1 Coupe. 5speed type 9.
- alanr
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Thanks Ray, that all seems to fit now.
Hi Alan,
I would say why not repair it, it is no bother at all as I like to repair things if possible and I have done so since I was a child. I enjoy the challenge and get satisfaction from doing it and it often costs nothing at all. That job is done, replaced and working and should last as long as the original did.
I have recently repaired a RV1 tachometer, three Lotus temperature gauges, rebuilt a garden shredder and am working on a lovely good quality 1950`s alarm clock.
As you probably know already I manufacture an alternative Elan window cable clamp screw for Series 3 and 4 cars with all proceeds to Cancer Research UK. This removes the risk of breaking the glass that was inherent in the Lotus design. No bother at all. Thanks for the opportunity for me to get another plug in.
Thankyou both
Eric
Hi Alan,
I would say why not repair it, it is no bother at all as I like to repair things if possible and I have done so since I was a child. I enjoy the challenge and get satisfaction from doing it and it often costs nothing at all. That job is done, replaced and working and should last as long as the original did.
I have recently repaired a RV1 tachometer, three Lotus temperature gauges, rebuilt a garden shredder and am working on a lovely good quality 1950`s alarm clock.
As you probably know already I manufacture an alternative Elan window cable clamp screw for Series 3 and 4 cars with all proceeds to Cancer Research UK. This removes the risk of breaking the glass that was inherent in the Lotus design. No bother at all. Thanks for the opportunity for me to get another plug in.
Thankyou both
Eric
- ericbushby
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Hi Eric
I am much in the same camp as you, try repairing before buying.
However I am a little intrigued by you window cable clamp, do you have a picture so we can see what you are talking about
Tony
I am much in the same camp as you, try repairing before buying.
However I am a little intrigued by you window cable clamp, do you have a picture so we can see what you are talking about
Tony
- tonyabacus
- Third Gear
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- Location: Cornwall
Hi Tony,
Yes, I just prefer to see if I can repair things before discarding them. The cost or whether it is worth while is a secondary consideration.
My window cable clamp screws seem to be going well. I have now sent 170 of them to Sue Miller who then sends them far and wide.
It is fair to say that I have not previously explained the reason why these work so well.
I will now.
My brass screw alongside a Lotus one.
The cable is clamped by an internal grub screw which can be tightened as much as you wish. The screw will not fail and the cable is held firmly. You can see the tip of the grub screw through the hole.
The main 1/4" unf nyloc nut does not need to be tightened hard on the glass, just touching is sufficient to get a close location, so this removes the risk of breaking the glass.
Only last week I needed to repair the window lift system on my car so I had the opportunity to try them for myself.
The development of the clamp screw was done with help and suggestions from members of this forum and members of the local Club Lotus group. I had not seen the job myself until then.
As always I have to say that the invention was by Alex Black who could no longer make them due to ill health. I changed Alex`s design a little to make it easier to manufacture.
Also, Sue Miller sends all the sales money to me, not taking any mark up for herself and it all goes to Cancer Research UK. We have so far sent £1750 00 to them.
Thanks again to all who have contributed with ideas and by buying them.
Cheers
Eric in Burnley
1967 S3SE DHC
Yes, I just prefer to see if I can repair things before discarding them. The cost or whether it is worth while is a secondary consideration.
My window cable clamp screws seem to be going well. I have now sent 170 of them to Sue Miller who then sends them far and wide.
It is fair to say that I have not previously explained the reason why these work so well.
I will now.
My brass screw alongside a Lotus one.
The cable is clamped by an internal grub screw which can be tightened as much as you wish. The screw will not fail and the cable is held firmly. You can see the tip of the grub screw through the hole.
The main 1/4" unf nyloc nut does not need to be tightened hard on the glass, just touching is sufficient to get a close location, so this removes the risk of breaking the glass.
Only last week I needed to repair the window lift system on my car so I had the opportunity to try them for myself.
The development of the clamp screw was done with help and suggestions from members of this forum and members of the local Club Lotus group. I had not seen the job myself until then.
As always I have to say that the invention was by Alex Black who could no longer make them due to ill health. I changed Alex`s design a little to make it easier to manufacture.
Also, Sue Miller sends all the sales money to me, not taking any mark up for herself and it all goes to Cancer Research UK. We have so far sent £1750 00 to them.
Thanks again to all who have contributed with ideas and by buying them.
Cheers
Eric in Burnley
1967 S3SE DHC
- ericbushby
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1360
- Joined: 13 Jun 2011
- Location: east lancashire
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