Pertronix Ignitor II problems

[JeffP]

I've tried to install a Pertronix Flamethrower Distributor with a Pertronix Ignitor II module, but do not seem to have got the timing right. I have the rotor arm pointing at No1 cylinder (looks to be at about 2 o clock). But without points how do you know that the body of the distributor is in roughly the right place. However, this is on an Elan Plus2 with a weber head and the distributor has few options if the cap is going to fit properly. I have a spark at the plugs and I think the timing is way off. Valve timing was set correctly. The coil is correct.

Any advice before I go back to points???

[mbell]

You'll need to adjust the static timing after changing to the pertronix. I was able to use Test lamp to static test mine but think it is an ignitor I. You fit it between 12v supply and the ground connection from the ignitor module and it lights on and off as it's triggered.

If not you'll need to experiment enough to get it running and use a timing light to set it up.

[elanner]

This is easier than it initially seems once you slow down and take it carefully.

- Make sure that #1 is at Top Dead Centre (TDC) on its Firing strike. To do this take the oil cap off and check that the cam lobe for #4 exhaust is pointing towards the centre line of the engine (in other words, towards the inlet cam). If it isn't then #1 is on its induction stroke, so turn the engine another 360 degrees.

- General good practice says that the distributor rotor should point at #1 spark plug, but this is just a pleasant convention, nothing more. Remove the distributor and turn the rotor so that when you reinsert it the rotor aligns to #1. The rotor turns on the jackshaft gear as you insert the distributor so you may need a few tries to get it looking nice.

- Fit the cap and confirm that the rotor arm is pointing at the high tension (HT) lead that actually goes to the #1 spark plug.

- Check that the other three HT leads, going anti-clockwise, connect to 3, 4, 2 respectively.

- Fit a simple timing lamp in place of the coil, turn the engine by hand, and check that the lamp goes on and off once every 180 degrees. Check the static timing for #1 (and/or #4) - the bulb should go off at around 12 degrees before TDC. Rotate the distributor until it does. Assuming you've got the first few steps right you shouldn't have to rotate it much. The small adjustment slot in the distributor locking bolt should provide enough play, if not you may have to twist the distributor in the big clamp that goes around it but, once again, it shouldn't be much. To start with you can simply set the crankshaft at 12 degrees BTDC and the rotate the distributor until you find the point where the bulb just goes off. Then check again by turning the crankshaft (thereby ensuring that play/slap in the distributor/jackshaft isn't messing with your setting).

- My timing lamp has three wires. Two on one side of the bulb that connect to (1) 12V lug on the starter solenoid and (2) down to the distributor to provide 12v to power the magnetic sensor. The wire on the other one side of the bulb goes to the sensor wire that comes out of the distributor (and would normally go to the -ve side of the coil). This allows me to check the static timing without switching on the ignition or having the coil connected. This works for me but no doubt there are other ways. Bulb-on equates to points being closed, bulb-off equates to the points being open. (Heck, it's been a while, I hope I've got this right!)

Nick