Rewiring OJR

[mikealdren]

Thanks Matt,
it looks like a Classic Mini/ late Spitfire part and seems readily available. Do you have any pics of how it is fitted to the column? I think there may well be others here who could be interested.

I assume it controls:
Indicators, headlight dip + flash, horn
Wipers (2spd) and screen wash
am I right?

Has your car allocated other uses for the original wiper and screenwash switches?

[Billmack]

Pretty sure those stalk switches fit 77 to 80 mgb

[mikealdren]

Yes, I suspect they were standard at Leyland at the time. Question is how do we fit them to a +2

[mbell]

Yes, I suspect they were standard at Leyland at the time. Question is how do we fit them to a +2

First impression is not that easily. The standard triumph storks mount to the steering column outer individually. These look to be an entire unit. So you probably looking at modifying the top of the column outer to make room for the setup. Then possible modification of trim for the new stork positions.

[mikealdren]

Hi Mbell,
Yes I agree, probably easiest to cut the top off and make an extension to the tube. Spyder do an expensive version but I haven't seen how it works, their shroud covers the details.

[HCA]

Spyder simply use a BMW Mini switch assembly that is inserted on the top of the column that has been cut back a bit to suit. An easy modification. You can do the same with the one in the photo abovbe or its more modern cousin as fitted to some of the later Rovers and Defender.

I think Spyder have moulded a grp cowl to include the ignition switch, but if you have ok modelling skills, you could do the same for another switch assembly.

[Matt Elan]

Evening all.
I’ve got my original plus 2 column with spitfire switches on the bench atm. Tomorrow I’ll do a test fit of the later switches on so we can see if they can be used with the original column
Watch this space!

[mikealdren]

Many thanks
Mike

[Matt Elan]

Right oh - I've looked at the standard column off ALD and it is different to that on ORJ (which had the later switches). There is no way the later switches will fit to original column unles you modify it by cutting off the cup shaped tin shroud that sits on the end of the column and onto which the original switches are mounted with a pair of screws. I would post up some pics but I've just update my imac's os to 'Big Sur' so now my old copy of Adobe photoshop has decided to hang when I try to save a picture. Doh.

[HCA]

The tin shroud you refer to is actually steel albeit poor quality. It is an interference fit onto the column itself. A flash of a hot oxy torch will probably expand it enough to slide off, or run a small disc cutter on the fit and it will open up.

Have you measured the i/d of the later switch mounting and the o/d of the actual column? I bet they are near enough a good fit requiring minimal fettling. I had to do very little to the Defender switch other than weld a lug in place on the column to secure the switch.

[Matt Elan]

Looks like HCA is right - the diameter of the outer column support tube on both columns looks to be the same, as is the distance from the nut on the inner column to the start of the outer tube. The later switches clamp onto the outer column so it looks like they would fit ifthe shroud is discarded. Here are a couple of pics:

Above is the original column with the shroud

and this is column in ORJ without the shroud.

[mikealdren]

Interesting, OJR looks like they have cut the shroud off. Have you had it assembled? Do the stalks line up well with the wheel?

Looks like I need to buy a spare column and try it, not keen to experiment with my good column!

[Matt Elan]

Having been contemplating the fitting of the dash loom with the dash semi out, I decided to bite the bullet and take the dash out completly. Which was surprisingly easy, as the only thing holding it in was the speedo which I'd taken out a couple of days ago to make the instrument light loom. So having faffed about with the steering column this morning I realised that the dash would just lift out. And it did. With no drama or problems. I was surprised....
So fitting the loom to the dash on the bench. This went very well and quick.

Heres the back of the dash with most parts wired in....I've not got a shot of it with the new instrument light loom as well...

And here is the front - looks nice, but I do need to adjust the switches and dials to get them all spot on

Finally I did have to fiddle about with the position of the terminals on a couple of the instruments to give the wires a good path to them - this is the temp gauge which had the terminals turned round from facing up to facing down -
I'm obviously halfway through here! The terminals are held on by little castellated nuts which you can unscrew and the turn them round; I added some switch cleaner to the mix to make sure I had a good contanct.

Thats all for today - I feel it was quite productive. Now I have to work out how to test that I've I've got the various instrument wires on the right way round, order up a new flasher unit with spade terminals and check how I'm fitting the column switches - if I've got long enough tails on the plugs or if I need to extend them. And fit the new radio. And tie off the ammeter wires safely and put in a feed to the voltmeter. and.....
I thought the rewire would be a doddle.....oh well, nearly there and then there the engine bay. Hurrah.

[Bigbaldybloke]

Just for info, I’ve done a similar job, but wanted sat nav in the car. I bought a small Garmin unit and found that it would fit neatly over the ashtray if I removed the tray. I had a spare ashtray assembly so cut out some of the rear of the tray holder and fitted a usb socket to power the sat nav, then glued strong thin bar magnets to the back of the sat nav. So now I can have it looking standard with the ashtray or just pull out the tray and plug in the satnav, the excess power lead tucks neatly into the tray space.
I think it looks pretty good!

[Matt Elan]

That’s really neat bbb nicely done!