Tips on removing dash mounted ignition switch?

[USA64]

So I could have picked that wrench up instead of scrambling for something to bat it off with? Good to know.

[billwill]

So I could have picked that wrench up instead of scrambling for something to bat it off with? Good to know.

NO! That's not the same situation, you dropped a low resistance object across terminals capable of delivering hundreds of amps. The spanner/wrench would get RED HOT in moments & if you had lifted it by hand you would have burned your hand. THe 12v electricity would not have harmed you much, just a tingling, but the heated wrench would burn you.

You can MELT steel objects by shorting them across a car battery.

[RogerFrench]

I find it easier on the S3 to remove the washer/ wiper switch first.

I think that only applies to LH drive cars.

Don't know, mine is RHD!

[billwill]

I find it easier on the S3 to remove the washer/ wiper switch first.

I think that only applies to LH drive cars.

Don't know, mine is RHD!

Ooops, yes, you are right. For some strange reason I was thinking the ignition switch was bottom right (on UK cars), but of course that is the headlight vacuum lifter there.

Come from not driving the Elan this year methinks.

.. Puts Dunces cap on and leaves..

[Kip]

Resurrecting an old thread...

Stupid question time: Is the lock nut that secures the ignition switch to the dash normally threaded or left hand threaded? My non-starting, no lights, no power at the coil issue has brought me to testing the ignition switch. I cannot remove the lock nut to remove the ignition switch. I created a removal tool using a thin bar of aluminum, but no luck. The bar bent. I tapped on the nut using a screwdriver and hammer, but it didn't move. It's either on really tightly, cross threaded, or has left hand threads. I'm assuming it works the good old fashioned, left-loosey-righty-tighty way. Please advise.

-Brad

[Billmack]

Regular threads. Make a tool out of a piece of tubing by filing on end til two tabs are left. Saves a lot of trouble. Or just buy from moss or someone like that

[Kip]

Thanks for confirming. The homemade tool from a copper or metal pipe is my next move. The aluminum/aluminium bar failed miserably. If the homemade tool fails, I'll order from Moss.

-Brad

[lotusfan]

Use steel tube, copper or aluminium is way too soft.

[Kip]

Thanks, Mike. I'll use steel. I didn't realize this bugger was in their so tightly. I assumed it would be slightly more than finger tight.

-Brad

[Craven]

Back nut you see may not be a nut, but a locking plate that has tabs toward the wood and a ‘D’ shape hole to stop switch rotating.
Undo from front with slotted tool.

[pharriso]

Use steel tube, copper or aluminium is way too soft.

Mine is made from Copper pipe, works a treat, The nut is not done to 100 LbFt....

[lotusfan]

Hi Phil

Brad said it was in tight, so maybe approaching 100 lb ft but if your copper pipe homemade tool works OK then perhaps that is the way to go. It just surprises me that you can make a tool that is strong enough using two little copper tabs. Live and learn.