Lotus Elan and Lotus Elan Plus 2 Forums

Looks very tight in there, never thought the backside of a MGB dashboard was spacious until now!

I did search, but most of the discussions were about dealing with the switch once removed.

Thanks!

On my '69 you just turn the ring nut on it. There are 2 flats I put a large needle nose plier on and turn. They also make small tools for this type of nut.
Then it pops out the back.

Rob

Tdskip,

As Rob said, my car is a 1968 Elan, I made a special tool, which sounds impressive but is just a small piece of sheet steel, 16 gauge I think, with a notch cut in it, so that it engages with both slots of the ring nut that Rob described. The ring nut unscrewed quite easily, the switch fits into a D shaped hole in the board which stops the switch from turning as the ring nut is undone.

Hope this helps,

Richard Hawkins

Moss also sells a tool: https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/switch-bezel-tool-384-960.html. Although as RIchard says it's easy to make one yourself.

Here's the US Moss link https://mossmotors.com/bezel-remover-tool-set, although at $34 I doubt they get many takers

draenog wrote:Here's the US Moss link https://mossmotors.com/bezel-remover-tool-set, although at $34 I doubt they get many takers

I have one fashioned from a 1" piece of copper plumbing pipe...

I find it easier on the S3 to remove the washer/ wiper switch first.

RogerFrench wrote:I find it easier on the S3 to remove the washer/ wiper switch first.

I also find it helps if you remove the ashtray, as it is then easier to fiddle with the wires on the back of the ignition switch.

Remember some of those wires are permanently LIVE, no fuses, so it is best, indeed mandatory, to disconnect the battery in the boot before you begin.

RogerFrench wrote:I find it easier on the S3 to remove the washer/ wiper switch first.

I think that only applies to LH drive cars.

Thanks for the responses gentlemen, especially about not electrocuting myself!

Battery disconnected on any under-dash work, yes.

tdskip wrote:Thanks for the responses gentlemen, especially about not electrocuting myself!

Battery disconnected on any under-dash work, yes.

Oh, I don't think you would electrocute yourself with just 12 volts, but the risk of starting a fire is horrendous.

billwill wrote:Oh, I don't think you would electrocute yourself with just 12 volts, but the risk of starting a fire is horrendous.

I think it's amps not volts that kill you, the battery has a lot of amps. I have a wrench with pits at the ends from being dropped across the battery terminals, 12 volts, lots of amps. Raise your hand if you've been shocked by the plug wire, 20,000 volts, no amps.

I will have the battery totally disconnected.

Something is blocking the switch from being pushed back and out, need to figure that out. Likely just some fiddly things to deal with.

Up and back worked...

Thanks!

USA64 wrote:

billwill wrote:Oh, I don't think you would electrocute yourself with just 12 volts, but the risk of starting a fire is horrendous.

I think it's amps not volts that kill you, the battery has a lot of amps. I have a wrench with pits at the ends from being dropped across the battery terminals, 12 volts, lots of amps. Raise your hand if you've been shocked by the plug wire, 20,000 volts, no amps.

Believe me, I've a B.Sc in Electrical Engineering.

Yes it is the total wattage hence the combination of volts and amps that kills you but there has to be enough volts to overcome the normal resistance of the human body and 12 volts isn't enough to do that.