Lotus Elan

Vote Yeah or Nay.

PostPost by: Evante » Thu Jul 26, 2018 3:09 pm

Hi All,

I am making progress on rewiring my '72 Federal Sprint and I am almost done. I am now addressing the "Anti-theft switch" in the glove compartment. The switch seems to be inadequate to handle the amps associated with the hot wire to the coil. Also, the notion that this would be an effective anti-theft device is doubtful in my mind. However, hooking it up would give a nod to originality. So here is the question: Hook up the anti-theft switch or leave it out?

Your opinion and your vote count.

Thanks for your time and indulgence,

Jay S.
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PostPost by: RichC » Thu Jul 26, 2018 3:22 pm

use a different switch elsewhere .
these ones fail routinely and are a pain to access.
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PostPost by: pharriso » Thu Jul 26, 2018 3:35 pm

I kept mine as an original "feature"; however I also made it easy to bypass the switch with a pair of connectors in case I wanted to eliminate the switch as the cause of problems.
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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Thu Jul 26, 2018 4:03 pm

^^ +1. Yay to keeping the switch, nay to hooking it up.
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PostPost by: david.g.chapman » Thu Jul 26, 2018 5:46 pm

I fitted another switch next to the old one, which was by-passed.

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PostPost by: 1owner69Elan » Thu Jul 26, 2018 6:00 pm

I kept the functionality but replaced the switch with one that is more robust, as shown. The original one is pretty flimsy, especially after 50 years. Removed the old switch and put this one in its place.

anti-theft-switch.jpg
anti-theft-switch.jpg (21.82 KiB) Viewed 665 times


Also, if you haven't done so already I would add a readily accessible master cutoff switch to shut everything down in an emergency. I also always engage this when not driving. Peace of mind. Too many horror stories of Elan fires. I put my switch on the back wall between the seats, easy to reach, from inside or outside of the car. My top (hood) is always down.


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PostPost by: Bigbaldybloke » Thu Jul 26, 2018 7:19 pm

I?ve terminated the wires in spade connectors and connected them together behind the switch so the switch could be reinstated if required if I ever sold the car. Sounds like the most popular option leave it in but bypassed. When I took my dash out the wires had already been disconnected and just twisted together, not even insulated!
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PostPost by: Foxie » Fri Jul 27, 2018 9:57 am

I have removed the ignition isolator/horn connection switch in the glovebox.

I have fitted the main interior FAI battery isolation switch in the location of the centre dash ashtray. :)
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PostPost by: jono » Fri Jul 27, 2018 10:12 am

I fitted one of these, it gets switched off by remote plipper whenever I leave the car:

https://www.batterybrain.co.uk/product/ ... tch-11-8v/
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PostPost by: dlbutler » Fri Jul 27, 2018 11:07 am

Nay. I revised the wiring to eliminate the "Anti-theft" switch and enlarged the hole for a light wired to the door switch/light circuit.
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PostPost by: Evante » Fri Jul 27, 2018 1:39 pm

Wow,

A lot of great ideas. I think I am going to go with a more robust switch and an emergency cut off. I already have a battery disconnect on the battery for when not in use but it is a manual variety.

Once again, thank you all very much for your comments.

Remember, "Vote early and vote often."

Best,

Jay S.
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PostPost by: mbell » Fri Jul 27, 2018 2:45 pm

jono wrote:I fitted one of these, it gets switched off by remote plipper whenever I leave the car:

https://www.batterybrain.co.uk/product/ ... tch-11-8v/


I have one of these and it's good. However I think it has some current/voltage sensing so will only turn off when car is off and doesn't act as a kill switch.

So probably wise to also have a physical kill switch somewhere else even if you don't normally use it.
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PostPost by: 1owner69Elan » Fri Jul 27, 2018 3:07 pm

If you go for an emergency kill switch recommend one that does more than just cutoff the battery. Also interrupts the ignition circuit and safely grounds the alternator:

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/docum ... =TECH00109
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PostPost by: prezoom » Fri Jul 27, 2018 3:52 pm

A couple of things on kill switches. On a car equipped with a generator, disconnecting the battery is not enough to disable the car from being started. A push start will fire the engine if the ignition is switched off and current to the coil is jumpered. With the generator running, it is enough to get the car running. On an alternator equipped car, IF you kill the battery after turning off the engine, and the engine has stopped turning, you will not damage the alternator. Same as changing out to a new battery. It is only when the kill switch is operated when the engine is running, that the alternator needs protection. Kill switches are available with a secondary set of contacts that can provide this protection function. As long as the key is off and the engine has stopped turning over no harm will come to the alternator. Racing is one thing, normal road driving is another. Disconnecting the battery ground is a good method of protecting the car from an electrical failure or theft on an alternator equipped car. Adding a secondary set of contacts to interrupt the battery lead from the generator would help prevent theft.
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PostPost by: saildrive2001 » Sat Jul 28, 2018 8:13 pm

I left my switch in the glove box but bypassed it. I use the Battery brain as mentioned earlier. It has a unique feature that monitors the battery voltage & disconnects if it gets below a preset level. It also monitors RFI so that when the engine is running it doesn't disconnect. In an Elan with the battery in the boot this doesn't work (I found out the hard way). I was able to purchase a vibration sensor which I attached to the unit & put the sensor in the boot where the silencer mounting is & this works fine.
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