1964 Sabra GT
1964 Elva Mk4T Coupe (awaiting restoration)
1965 Ford Falcon Ranchero, 302,AOD,9",rack and pinion,disc,etc,etc,etc
1954 Nash Healey LeMans Coupe
Owning a Lotus will get you off the couch
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1248
- Joined: 16 Mar 2009
- Location: Escondido, California
If you don't want to attempt refurbishing your switch an alternative, as has been discussed before, is to use a vacuum solenoid actuated by the original light switch.
I included a small vent filter for the open leg (vent to atmosphere - kills vacuum), just to ensure no foreign material could enter (suggested by another post).
Then the other ports are connected to the existing vacuum lines.
My failsafe lights now stay down indefinitely and don't creep up at all over time. The solenoid is just tucked into an available space behind the dash by the heater. It's small so it fits fine, just rests in there. The headlights function as originally, only better.
You can use an NO (normally open) version for the failsafe lights and an NC (normally closed) version for non-failsafe. Needs to be a direct actuating solenoid that works with vacuum.
Street 181 BHP
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 770
- Joined: 16 Jun 2015
- Location: Napa, California
1970 +2S (RIP - went out in a blaze of glory in 2001)
- Third Gear
- Posts: 252
- Joined: 08 Dec 2015
- Location: Thames Ditton, Surrey
I managed to prove the integrity of the manifold to reservoir and vacuum units on the pods by connecting a length of pipe in place of the T peice and then directly to the join on the passenger side pod. As soon as i started the engine, the pods rose and then remained up with the engine off.
This lead me to suspect (as well as the hissing i heard from behind the dash with the switch bypassed) the either the reservoir->switch or switch->lamp was leaking. With a willing assistant holding a finger over one end, I blew in to the other end. the switch->lamp almost gave me a burst blood vessel, but on the switch->reservoir i could here the hiss behind the dash.
I was able to pull that pipe out, feeding in some electric flex, measure for a new pipe, then pull the new one back though (by pulling the flex, swearing and a bit of random waggling under the dash). The old pipe was obviously damaged (i suspect just an old age thing on a bend, although i guess it could have been pinched). Result is that the head lamps now raise much more quickly and remain up (i've only waited 20 mins, but it's much better than the 20 sec previously) when the engine is stopped.
Of course, I've now realised there's not much use leaving the headlamps up, as you can't (or I can't) turn the sidelamps off with the headlamps up...... Is that how a +2s with non-failsafe lamps is supposed to work?
But at least I'm much more confident that the lights will actually rise and stay up.
Thanks for all the suggestions
- First Gear
- Posts: 29
- Joined: 17 Nov 2016
- Location: Ross on Wye, Herefordshire
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