Veg, quick note as some of the info here seems a bit confused. Your car (50/2036) is presumably identical to mine (50/2181). Mine was in stock form a 1969 build date Federal with four minor gauges, two fuses, flat switches. Judging from some of the responses guys might be thrown off with your car listed as 1970, which I think are typically six minor gauge, lots of fuses, etc. I had the same issue as my car is registered 1970; I changed the vintage in my signature line as it gets confusing.
EDIT. See you clarified build date above while I was typing. Would recommend chNging your signature line to 1969.
From your picture you are using the correct Federal diagram where the wires are numbered rather than called up by colour code. My car followed this diagram exactly. However, the diagram can be hard to read as it is not the usual schematic, so I often had to look at the other Plus 2 schematics to figure out an individual circuit. I also relied on the standard British Standard wire colours (lots of listings on-line, this one has the standard listed):
http://www.team.net/sol/tech/LucasColours.htmlDiagram in my Lotus WSM is called:
LOTUS ELAN PLUS 2 FEDERAL
(RB 340 CONTROL BOX)
March ?68 ?> March ?69
The date range is hand written, so not sure if it came from the factory.
As mentioned already, the Control Box in this usage is the mechanical box that regulates the generator charging current/voltage. The DB10 refered to is not present on our cars, as I think it relates to a later NA regulation on the various tail light filaments.
EDIT. I see you are on an alternator. I completely removed the regulator during my rewire. I have a copy of alternator Instructions from Ray at RD that might help you to check over your wiring in this area.
Yes the brake fail is triggered by differing pressures between the front and rear brake circuits (no SOVY). In my car the switch (called the PDW Valve on the schematic) is located left side proximal to the pedal box. Both the test button switch and the PDW are momentary normally open switches. If you are ditching the switch and thinking of reassigning the warning light, you might want to consider a low oil pressure light?
I would absolutely ditch the anti-theft switch as it is prone to failure. Back in the day I recall being stuck at Whistler Mountain as the owner of the Plus 2 didn?t know about the feature. The switch either failed or got bumped, and we couldn?t figure things out in the parking lot and hitchhiked home. To me there is a certain irony in trying to electrically immobilize a vintage British sports car.
At a minimum get a new switch I guess. For reliable anti-theft I installed a remote controlled relay that turns off all the power to the car, which I really like.
The switch has the following:
- one (2) Black Ground: Used to ground the horn?
- two (8) Red/Green: Basically the ignition feed to the coil. Runs from the tach and voltage stabilizer mounted on the tach. Will need to think a bit to recall the details. From memory you are correct that joining these two defeats the imobilizer feature, but not 100% sure right now.
- one (21) Purple/Black: Horn trigger from horn relay (switched to ground by horn push or anti-theft switch; joined at firewall bullet connector).
Regarding the mass of loom connectors in your picture, I would seriously consider replacing them with modern plastic multi-pin block connectors with integrated crimp spade connectors. I got mine here:
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/s ... connectorsThey have a few kits available with several different sizes and the required crimping tool. The big advantage is once these are installed and working you will never have an issue with miss-reconnecting the mass of wires to essentially identical bullets.
Position the connectors so your entire dash can be removed by simply disconnecting the plugs. Figuring out how all the bullets go together is really a job you only want to do once!
The common style connectors Randy described are replaced by crimping multiple wires together at the spade crimp. The crimping is a double roll affair, not the unreliable crimped deals we get here at the auto parts store.
I can?t 100% remember the convention in the drawing, but generally if you see the same number directly opposite the bullet is straight through and isolated. Where you see two of the same number on one side and the same number opposite they are connected (e.g. 11 in your picture). The puzzling ones are like 12 and 13 in your picture; I think I had to examine the other schematics to figure out if they were connected.
When you get to the wiper circuit, I recall they actually changed conductor colour at one of the bullets.
You will see it when you get there, but not readily apparent if everything is apart now. I think it is shown in your picture as (6) Blue/Yellow to the wiper motor joined to (40) Black/Yellow to the wiper switch. The minor pain with the wiper circuits is Lotus did not use the standard colours.
HTH. Ask away as you proceed. Do confirm your model vintage as well.
Excellent winter project, but not to be rushed. Although it can seem frustrating and tedious at times, I was always motivated by imagining paying a professional to dig through the issue.
Stu