Lotus Elan

Starter Solenoid mounting to firewall

PostPost by: pharriso » Mon Mar 13, 2017 8:18 pm

Anyone any idea how the later style Starter Solenoid was originally attached to the firewall? Mine was attached with #10 or #12 self tapping screws which are stripping.


Can someone measure the width of the the 2 mounting slots on a solenoid:
srb335_lucasstartersolenoid_ebay_5.jpg and


Maybe I'll use machine screws & use a nut/washer on the inside of the firewall...
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PostPost by: Elan45 » Tue Mar 14, 2017 1:42 am

Phil,

You can also use the sheet metal screws that you have and put Tinnerman nuts on the inside of the car for the screws to tap into. You also need to ground the case of the solenoid and you should find a black wire that comes out of the loom in that area.

I just put both my solenoid and Lucas starter in a box on the shelf, replaced both with a Keith Gustofson gear reduction starter. I've wanted to do this for years and I finally took the plunge. I simply bolted the two cables together to power the large terminal on the new unit at all times. made up a short 16ga wire to trigger the small terminal on the new unit, a male term on one end and a female term on the other, so that the male end plugs into the white w/ red tracer wire that triggered the old solenoid and the extension wire's female term plugs onto the new unit.

I bought some nice terminal rubber boots from Jegs, their number 049-ALL76152 in red. They also have black a number or two different, to cover the now always hot terminal on the new starter. I didn't have a good size shrink tube here in my shop, so my bolted connection of the two cables in line is well taped. I also put a short length of heater hose over the cable to keep it from abrading on the sharp edge of the frame, since it is now always hot. I'm very happy with my much improved cranking ability. I've had one of Keith's modified starters on my Lotus 20/22 since 2001 and although I like to keep my cars original, I do want them to operate.

Roger PS: I can measure the feet on the old solenoid if you still need it.
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PostPost by: pharriso » Tue Mar 14, 2017 10:18 am

Elan45 wrote:You can also use the sheet metal screws that you have and put Tinnerman nuts on the inside of the car for the screws to tap into.


Great idea.


Elan45 wrote: PS: I can measure the feet on the old solenoid if you still need it.


Yes please in case Plan A doesn't work. It's the width of the slots I'm after... probably somewhere between 1/4" & 3/8".
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PostPost by: Elan45 » Tue Mar 14, 2017 7:37 pm

OK, here goes.
Total width of the mounting pad is nomanally 2 in. wide. The slots are .210 in wide and they are center of radius to center of radius 1.50 in. So, you could braze a couple of 10-32 nuts on a strip of steel an inch and a half apart or something similar. I think thats what I had, but when I took both screws out, it fell down behind the carpet.

Roger
'67 Elan S3 SS DHC
'67 Elan FHC pre-airflow
'67 Elan S3 SE upgrade to 26R by Original owner
'58 Eleven S2 (ex-works)
'62 20/22 FJ (ex-Yamura)
'70 Elan +2S RHD
'61 20 FJ project
'76 Modus M1 F3
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PostPost by: pharriso » Tue Mar 14, 2017 8:21 pm

Perfect, thx for the info. I ordered a new boot from Jegs as well.

p.s. I've had a Gustaffson starter for several years now as well, great piece of kit!
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PostPost by: Grizzly » Fri Mar 17, 2017 3:16 pm

Mine had self tappers going into flat spire clips on the inside that where held in place with some sort of black bitumen, you only have to press a little too hard when removing the screws and the clips fall behind the carpet inside and the screws just turn (won't tighten).
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PostPost by: prezoom » Fri Mar 17, 2017 4:34 pm

Finding it a great PITA to get to the nuts holding the windshield washer motor, engine bonnet prop, the front/rear brake balance unit and the starter solenoid on my Plus2, I made some external threaded Tee nuts, 1/4-28 inside, 3/8-24 outside from some round stock. Enlarged the original hole to fit, and once in place you do not need 7 foot arms or a second person to remove and replace items bolted to the body. Also used a pop rivet to hold the nut plates that secures the bonnet latches to the fire wall. The aluminum rivet can easily be drilled out to allow the plate to be moved about for adjustment. Just put one bolt in place to hold the plate before you drill out the rivet. Also use them for other things that are bolted to the body, where you cannot easily access the end of the bolt to install the washer and nut.
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