18 ga wire will handle most standard loads
14 ga for the windows
for the main feed to the fusebox, get the big lucas wire, plain brown 84 strand, as it is softer than any other standard wire you can find
See what pricing you can get on ETFE insulated wire. Cheaper than teflon and just as high a temp rating
I just cannot see putting pvc wire in everything...........
One can buy pretty standard connectors cheaply and buy gold plated crimp contacts for the areas in the nose where the weather gets to them
http://www.newark.com/te-connectivity-a ... gQod3_sJiwavailable 2,4,6,10 position.....
for the standard quick disconnect buy the best you can, nothing from a retail outlet is worth using. Nylon insulated rather then vinyl are usually higher quality
the 'proper' way to build a harness requires two things.
A run list and a harness board
The run list is hard. It is a list of every single wire from where it starts to where it ends. A separate entry for every intermediate connection, so if you are making an organized set of connectors at the firewall instead of a useless pile of bullet connectors, that becomes a set of connectors, for instance J1/P1 is a connector pair, J or "jack" is one side, P or 'plug' is the other
the attached PDF is my run list from 20 years ago when I did my +2, IIRC J1,2,3 are the firewall connectors.
The harness board is easy. your dash pretty much needs to be out to do a harness, trace it on a piece of plywood and drive a nail in every spot for a switch or gauge and label it. Measure where things go off the dash and figure where you are going to need a bend and draw it on the board. Do a separate one for the engine bay, it pretty simple, drive nails for the SOVY, alternator, fan, headlights. Only one cable goes to the boot, you could wire that in place pretty neatly
To build your harness you print out a copy of your run list, and when you run the wire, you cross it out with high lighter. Remember to leave a service loop on the ends of things so you can get the gauges out of the dash for instance
then you need to crimp the pins on the ends of the wires, and put them in connector housings if you choose to do it that way.
Then you ring every single wire with a meter and cross that line out on the run list in red marker.
Then you take it off the harness board, plug it in and have it work the first time........
other notes. Buy a little bag of 'ring tongues' for all of the gauges so you can use 1/4 quick disconnects for everything.
nothing wrong with glass fuses, still can buy them everywhere around here.
Little is wrong with the Lucas harness other than total crap materials, some undersize wires, and not enough grounds. I fused both windows separately and otherwise left it mostly as is, one switched fuse, one unswitched, no new relays other than the fan. 14 gauge wire to the windows and grounding them will make them seem possessed,
The only error in the PDF AFAIK is the high beam circuit is not quite right, having to do with the added solenoid, and the fact that they wired the microswitches stupid from the factory. The High beam light will switch on and off even when the lights are not on, and maybe I added a diode in there......
Anyway, quite simple really..............