Heater cable stuck

PostPost by: Terry L » Thu Mar 17, 2016 3:08 am

My dash replacement continues, albeit in a desultory fashion. My newest problem is the inner heater cable which stops about two inches before its seat. I see a groove on one side of the shaft and a small moveable pin on the exterior of the outer cable, which I infer relates to locking the cable by twisting it, but nothing seems to allow the inner cable to go in all the way. Any thoughts?
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PostPost by: dgym » Thu Mar 17, 2016 4:43 am

I had excellent results when i removed my inner cable completely and set about removing any sharp kinks or bends. I then lubricated and refitted and it's been perfect since.
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PostPost by: elanfan1 » Thu Mar 17, 2016 10:22 am

Ive had this before and I think it does relate to getting the shaped part to fit in the receiving hole. A bit of lubrication in there must help but if I recall correctly it took me ages, pushing twisting trying again and again until eventually it sort of popped in. The problem was definitely at the knob end as the cable was new, unlinked and way through the bottom end.

Robert the Bruce comes to mind.
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PostPost by: Terry L » Mon Mar 28, 2016 3:38 am

Progress has been made. I had to remove the outer cable and then, using a vise to hold it, the inner cable ran in. I was then able to install the entire cable with hardware.
OK, next problem. All electrics seem to work except the flashers and turn signals. The speedo is still out but everything else is in and connected, and I have grounded the leads which should go to its back. Any ideas?
Oh, one more. I bought and installed a replacement choke cable but it lacks the groove which is used to lock the cable by twisting it. Will the choke stay in position without twisting it?
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PostPost by: billwill » Mon Mar 28, 2016 2:24 pm

Terry L wrote:Progress has been made. I had to remove the outer cable and then, using a vise to hold it, the inner cable ran in. I was then able to install the entire cable with hardware.
OK, next problem. All electrics seem to work except the flashers and turn signals. The speedo is still out but everything else is in and connected, and I have grounded the leads which should go to its back. Any ideas?
Oh, one more. I bought and installed a replacement choke cable but it lacks the groove which is used to lock the cable by twisting it. Will the choke stay in position without twisting it?


You won't need the 'choke' out long enough to worry about that.

For the flashers use a multimeter to check where the voltages are getting to in the flasher circuit.
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PostPost by: Terry L » Tue Mar 29, 2016 12:57 am

I was afraid that you would say that but a kind soul recently posted a digital color wiring diagram which I can expand enough to see what it says, so I can figure this out. But it was possible that someone would say, "Oh yes, that always lead 4 which falls off" or something like that.
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PostPost by: Terry L » Tue Apr 05, 2016 2:25 am

Solved my flasher issue - just missed one stray ground wire. Now all I need to do is get the speedo in and I'm done! However, I'm having the devil of a time trying to fit the speedo in and get the voltage stabilizer attached to its rear. I removed the odometer stalk by punching out the tiny pin but I still can't get it to go in with the stabilizer attached, and, now that the steering column is hooked up, I can't access the speedo over the dash to attach the stabilizer that way either. The only way left is from underneath, for which I need a 5 year old boy with good mechanical skills. I'll try again next weekend.
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PostPost by: billwill » Tue Apr 05, 2016 11:47 am

Put the stabalizer on afterwards or move it to the tacho. It is merely mounted on the speedo as a convenient point for earthing it. Its action is not relatated to the speedo at all.
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PostPost by: Terry L » Wed Apr 06, 2016 3:47 am

I have tried mounting it after the speedo is in but haven't yet succeeded. I can't hold the stabilizer in place and get the little machine screw started in the blind. I'd rather mount it correctly but may move it instead.
Another question. I have what looks like a large capacitor with only one wire attached. The other pole was taped over by the prior owner. I assume that it was mounted to the dash and grounded. Any idea what it might be?
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Wed Apr 06, 2016 5:40 am

Car radio aerial ( capacitor )

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PostPost by: billwill » Wed Apr 06, 2016 3:18 pm

What I meant was if you mount the stabalizer on the tacho, you can reach through the speedo hole to do up the securing nut.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

To mount/fix things behind the dash later. Remove the knee trim and the seat. Open the door wide. Get a lamp which can sit on the floor shining upwards.

Then lie on your back on the floor of the Elan face up with your legs outside or up againt the rear screen (easier on an open car).

Hurts like heck ! :o

Then you can see and reach up to the instruments. :?
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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Wed Apr 06, 2016 6:34 pm

Terry L wrote: I can't hold the stabilizer in place and get the little machine screw started in the blind. I'd rather mount it correctly but may move it instead.


Does your stabilizer have a hole or slot, to mount? Mine is slotted (OEM) so I can start the screw first, the put
the stabilizer in position and tighten the screw.
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PostPost by: Terry L » Thu Apr 07, 2016 2:04 am

Hole. Maybe I'll slot it.
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PostPost by: Terry L » Thu Apr 07, 2016 2:12 am

john.p.clegg wrote:Car radio aerial ( capacitor )

John :wink:

If you're serious, I never would have guessed that in a million years. Since I don't presently have a radio, I suppose it's not critical.
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Thu Apr 07, 2016 6:09 am

I am serious,have used a capacitor many times to boost the reception,even remember in the 1970's some fly-boys on the market selling them as TV amplifiers...
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