Lotus Elan

Fuel sender too long?

PostPost by: foxoles » Tue Dec 08, 2015 12:37 pm

Since I've had my Elan the fuel gauge hasn't never worked properly - I've used the wooden dowel method :wink: , so I thought I'd investigate the sender end first it being more accessible.

Testing the sender it looked fine the ohm reading going up and down as it should - range 240 - 10.
So on checking the sender in the tank and rotating the tank to replicate a full and empty tank it never really moved the multimeter reading that much. It seems resticted in movement and when measured is too long.

Pictures show the gap if sender is touching the baffle in a straight position, entrance to tank to tank baffle measurement, sender length, and the sender end for identification.

What's wrong? The sender? As far as I know this is the original to the car (Elan S4 1969)
The tank? Axminster ally - new in when I bought the car.

Can the sender arm be shortened? If so - how?
Or is there another sender that would work.

Thanks
Jon
Attachments
gap.jpg and
baffle.jpg and
float.jpg and
senderend.jpg and
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PostPost by: ericbushby » Tue Dec 08, 2015 1:09 pm

Hi Jon.
I just recently extended a sender successfully for a similar but opposite problem.
The rod is galvanised steel. If you cut it to the required length and then fit a splint alongside using a similar sized rod, (I used brazing rod), wrap it with fine copper wire where necessary to hold it together and soft solder it, it should work OK.
Of course check that it is swinging the correct distance and at the correct angle to sweep the internal size of the tank.
Best of luck
Eric in Burnley
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PostPost by: elanman999 » Tue Dec 08, 2015 1:25 pm

Jon,
If you want to shorten the arm, just put a bend in it. You can then check it's moving from empty to full.
Cheers
John
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PostPost by: c42 » Tue Dec 08, 2015 1:27 pm

Rather than cutting, just make a double bend in the rod to shorten it.

Regards
John
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PostPost by: ericbushby » Tue Dec 08, 2015 2:01 pm

John`s suggestion of using bends is much better than mine.
Eric in Burnley
1967 S3SE DHC
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PostPost by: foxoles » Tue Dec 08, 2015 2:18 pm

Thanks for the suggestions, it seems to be a KISS solution - always the best.
Would I be right in saying that the full and empty would now need changing on the dial if I reduce its length by a double bend? Or, doesn't it matter as the dial is pretty inaccurate anyway :wink:

Cheers
Jon
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PostPost by: wotsisname » Tue Dec 08, 2015 2:24 pm

In reality, does it matter if it's inaccurate at the "full" end of the scale ?
1968 Elan plus 2 - project
2007 Elise S2 [modified with a Hethel 70th sticker (yellow)]
2000 Elise S1 - Sold
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PostPost by: pharriso » Tue Dec 08, 2015 2:39 pm

foxoles wrote:Thanks for the suggestions, it seems to be a KISS solution - always the best.
Would I be right in saying that the full and empty would now need changing on the dial if I reduce its length by a double bend? Or, doesn't it matter as the dial is pretty inaccurate anyway :wink:

Cheers
Jon


Well if you shorten the arm technically the float would sweep through a larger arc... but in reality I use mine as a full or empty warning.

BTW easiest way to shorten might be to add a loop (360 degrees) by wrapping the rod around a 1/4 or 1/2" dowel or pipe.
Phil Harrison
1972 Elan Sprint 0260K
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PostPost by: fatboyoz » Tue Dec 08, 2015 11:20 pm

Jon,
If the tank is Axminster Specialist Panels, why not give them a call. They sell senders for their tanks, or perhaps they could give you the info' you are looking for.
http://axminsterspecialistpanels.com/in ... otus-elan/
Cheers,
Colin.
'68 S4 DHC
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