Lotus Elan

Testing electronic ignition module.

PostPost by: Apx » Thu Apr 09, 2015 8:54 am

Does anyone know if you can test an electronic ignition module, if so how. Im getting starting problems, especially hot start. All normal parts, timing etc correct, it has an accuspark module. The engine once running is excellent.

if not i guess its time to buy points etc and set up to see......

Cheers Neal
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PostPost by: simonknee » Thu Apr 09, 2015 4:46 pm

If the engine runs fine when going then I would say your ignition system is not the culprit. Keeping the car running is a pretty good test of an ignition system! Is this a problem that has appeared recently or has always been an issue?

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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Thu Apr 09, 2015 5:47 pm

Apx wrote: if not i guess its time to buy points etc and set up to see......



I think this is your best diagnostic tool, at this point.
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PostPost by: ericbushby » Thu Apr 09, 2015 8:45 pm

Neal,
When it won't start do you still get a spark? If a timing light flashes the spark is probably OK.
What carburettors are fitted?
Are the plugs OK.
My S3SE with Weber 151's needs full throttle to start if it is hot. It behaves as if it is flooded. Have you tried that?
I agree that fitting points is a quick and easy way to find if it is ignition or something else. I have done that a few times myself and so far it has never been the ignition module which was causing the trouble.
Eric in Burnley,
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PostPost by: Grizzly » Fri Apr 10, 2015 10:14 am

Don't trust the Accuspark, there junk in my personal opinion, they eithr work or don't and mine didn't like heat. I went through three on my Sprint before it even got near a road. I got sick of them and went with Lumination (Optronic on my Sprint and Magnetronic on my +2, btw i prefer the Magnetronic as it doesn't have an unsightly power box to hide some where)

As already said, Check for a spark when its playing up.

Out of interest, do you need to use the Choke when starting from cold? or does it stubble if you rev it quickly once running? i only ask as i had a problem with my Weber Pump jets and it ment it would only start with the choke and when hot was a pita to get going, i fitted a fresh set of Pump jets and it starts hot or old with one blip of the throttle.

Of course its always worth cleaning your grounds too, most likely won't be them but after hours of wiring issues with my cars i always start with the grounds.
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PostPost by: Apx » Fri Apr 10, 2015 11:36 am

Guys,
Thanks for the replies, its an early s4se with webers. The problem first occurred late last year and only when hot. I have rarely ever used the choke to start the car, 2 blips on the throttle, turn key and it went. Once fired its excellent with plenty of go. I will go out and play this afternoon and see what i can do i intend to clean the Earth points as these caused problems on my +2 last year. i will get back with results.
Thanks again
Neal
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PostPost by: Apx » Fri Apr 10, 2015 2:48 pm

Cheers Guys, problem appears to be solved, time will now tell. It was the Rotor Arm

When i first set about solving this problem about a month ago one of the first things i did was replace the rotor arm, along with the coil and others because they were old, probably not good and showing signs of wear. I already had brought replacements. I assumed that therefore they were good, and for the second time in a year, new parts from good suppliers have failed quickly or not worked. First was a set of HT leads with a break in one and now a rotor arm where the arm has loosened and can float. Out came a trusty, very old lucas arm and car starts fine with a slight adjustment to the timing. Thanks for the help it got me thinking and made me go back to square one.

Cheers Neal

PS anyone know of a source for good quality rotor arms in the UK and the Part numbers.....
IF EVERYTHING SEEMS TO BE GOING WELL, YOU HAVE OBVIOUSLY OVERLOOKED
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PostPost by: Grizzly » Fri Apr 10, 2015 4:31 pm

I'm using one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rotor-Arm-for ... 5af9908379 but frankly its such a common rotor arm i'd bet any local parts shop would have one cheaper than that.
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PostPost by: billwill » Fri Apr 10, 2015 11:30 pm

You should really use the rotor arm with the centrfugal RPM limiter, but they are rare now.

A bunch came up for sale in 2013 , it was mentioned on here and us Lotus users bought them all, I think, quickly to the great surprise of the seller.



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Strange I cannot find the relevant topic on here, despite trying various search words, but on eBay I did find a record of when I purchased one 6 Sep 2013 it was a:
ROVER P6 2000/2200 ROTOR ARM NEW GENUINE WITH REV LIMITER (NEW OLD STOCK)
( 190897263352 )

Image


~~~~~~~~~~

But failing that get a red rotor from "The Distributor Doctor"
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PostPost by: billwill » Sat Apr 11, 2015 12:20 am

Aha they still have some, or similar. Not sure id they are the right RPM, but the price is good.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-P6-2000 ... 2c725d12f8

The picture is too fuzzy to quite make out the RPM stamped on the rim, but it looks a bit like 3325 (distie RPM) which would be 6650 engine RPM.
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PostPost by: Chancer » Sat Apr 11, 2015 10:21 am

A super guy to deal with and I will bore you with one of my claims to fame.

I knew of this guy and his business selling initially Stag parts and later on other Triumphs and BL vehicles.

I met him when buying some bits for a girlfriends TR7 and he told me that he knew me and were it not for me he would never have started his business, as I didnt recognise him I was intrigued.

Turns out he was a coppersmith apprentice at the company where I was a drawing office apprentice, he was a couple of years younger than me and as we had an apprentice intake of 200+ per year our paths didnt cross.

At the time I had a really lairy Triumph Stag (bought as a non runner and resurrected) which was my pride and joy and I took great pleasure in showboating with it, he said he was intoxicated by the sound of the exhaust every time I drove in or out of the car park (no doubt with unecessary revving and throttle blipping) and the look of the vehicle, he covetted it and vowed one day to own one, just as I had done.

It was a great compliment when he said that I was the inspiration which eventually resulted in his business, I told him that he may once have been envious of me but I was now envious of him :D
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PostPost by: billwill » Sat Apr 11, 2015 10:21 am

The vendor has confirmed that they say 3325RPM, so these limiter rotor arms are suitable for our Elans and the eBay page says he has 19 left.
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PostPost by: Apx » Sun Apr 12, 2015 10:29 am

Speak to soon as the phrase goes, the cars back to its old ways. Because of the sudden going ok to not, I'm guessing its electrical. I intend the go back to points etc tomorrow to eliminate the ignition module but having read a current running post I'm wondering if it could be the ignition switch, it is nearly 50 years old. Can it be tested or just replaced. The car, once going this morning, ran very well from cold!
Am i missing something else or any other ideas?

Cheers Neal
IF EVERYTHING SEEMS TO BE GOING WELL, YOU HAVE OBVIOUSLY OVERLOOKED
SOMETHING.
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PostPost by: billwill » Sun Apr 12, 2015 11:17 am

I have had to replace my ignition switch as the contacts were badly corroded/burned and were restricting the current.

They are still available new as far as I know.

You can test if it would improve by running a hotwire from the fat input terminal of the starter solenoid to the coil. But read the other ignition thread about ballasted coil systems for precautions.

lotus-electrical-f38/strange-ignition-problem-t33704.html
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PostPost by: ericbushby » Sun Apr 12, 2015 12:29 pm

I had a similar intermittent fault that was proving difficult to locate.
I ran a wire from the solenoid, through a fuse and a switch inside the car, direct to the coil.(non ballast version).
When the fault next occured I could then prove that it was in the ignition switch or it's wiring. It also allowed me to drive home.
The fault was located to a faulty crimp on the ignition switch wiring.
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