Headlight Wiring

PostPost by: KevJ+2 » Sun Mar 08, 2015 9:01 pm

Mike, I'm quite confused with your problem. On the stalk,you have to go through dipped beam from main beam to flash which means before flash, your in dipped. Maybe It's a strange quirk, but fascinating.
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PostPost by: TroonSprint » Sun Mar 08, 2015 9:58 pm

Kev, I don't know how the stalk on your Plus 2 works, but on my Sprint the stalk is a Triumph Herald one. You move it up for main beam and down for dip. As well as that, you can pull the stalk towards the steering wheel to flash the lights, and you can do this whether it is in the dip or main beam position. But with my wiring the flash function only works when the stalk is up, that is in the main beam position. I'm sure that if I had kept the wiring as standard it would have worked in either position, so something I've done (or not done) has caused the anomaly.

Thanks Dougal for the info on the diode. I need to go through the circuits with the meter to see what's happening.

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PostPost by: stugilmour » Mon Mar 09, 2015 5:05 pm

dougal9887 wrote:Maplins.
QL87U.



Here is a link to a diode alternative. These come with blade ends so easy to integrate into the loom. Not sure on the other one; is it a solder in place deal?

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/s ... de&x=0&y=0

Very good supplier for various wire colours as well.

HTH

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PostPost by: TroonSprint » Mon Mar 09, 2015 7:27 pm

Thanks Stu, that's even better. I hope to finish working on the MGB GTV8 soon and get back to the Elan.

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PostPost by: dougal9887 » Mon Mar 09, 2015 7:53 pm

Here is a link to a diode alternative. These come with blade ends so easy to integrate into the loom. Not sure on the other one; is it a solder in place deal?


Yep, solder on 2 bullets and maintain originality :D

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PostPost by: stugilmour » Mon Mar 09, 2015 8:04 pm

dougal9887 wrote:
Here is a link to a diode alternative. These come with blade ends so easy to integrate into the loom. Not sure on the other one; is it a solder in place deal?


Yep, solder on 2 bullets and maintain originality :D

Dougal.


Yeah, Original MX-5 pod motors. :)
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PostPost by: dougal9887 » Mon Mar 09, 2015 9:49 pm

Yes, I've got bullets on the pod motor also for originality :lol:
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PostPost by: KevJ+2 » Mon Mar 09, 2015 9:54 pm

With regards to Mike's Triumph stalk, I've read an old post from 2007 in which the poster says that the Triumph stalk's flash function was disabled at the factory and if you take it apart, a 2" wire can be soldered back in to allow the function.
Might be worth a look.
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PostPost by: willhu » Sat Nov 26, 2022 8:38 pm

I know I'm a bit late on the thread, I've followed both the diagram posted down below, but as soon as I connect the motor ground after connecting everything, the headlight goes up and down infinite times, til I unplug the ground. The same could be said about the motor power (going to 30).

Is there something that I didn't understand? Or did I just wire it wrong because I'm pretty sure I've wired everything accordingly to the diagrams.
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PostPost by: stugilmour » Wed Nov 30, 2022 4:54 pm

willhu wrote:I know I'm a bit late on the thread, I've followed both the diagram posted down below, but as soon as I connect the motor ground after connecting everything, the headlight goes up and down infinite times, til I unplug the ground. The same could be said about the motor power (going to 30).

Is there something that I didn't understand? Or did I just wire it wrong because I'm pretty sure I've wired everything accordingly to the diagrams.



Welcome to the forum from Calgary.

Assuming you are trying to install electric pod motors? This is a pretty complicated topic with a ton of posts.

This thread may help. If you scroll down I posted a PowerPoint diagram that shows how the system works. There are a couple of versions of the PowerPoint, so get the last one.

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=19721&start=

Originally my motor would keep running like you describe. This issue was the changeover relay needs to ground out the motor supply to act as a brake. Otherwise there is enough inertia in the motor that it keeps running as the switch brush skips over the gap in the rotary switch plate.

As I say, this is a complicated topic and I am kind of guessing at your issue. If you search on “pod motor” you will see some other threads that might help.

Since I did the PowerPoint diagram in the old thread linked above I changed my system and I would recommend doing this improvement. Without a speed controller I found the pods were moving too fast; I actually have a fibreglass crack near the corner of the pod opening, possibly from going too fast. This thread has details on the controller, which is available on eBay.

viewtopic.php?f=31&t=49391&start=15

If you decide to add this controller, note it adjusts the motor speed thru the ground side of the motor supply wires. I had to modify my wiring as I had grounded the motor supply to a common ground in the car; the ground side of the motor has to be wired directly back to the controller.

Note a similar controller is used in the Spyder kit.

Hope my answer isn’t too confusing. Let us know how you make out. What model of car are you working on? The wiring can be different depending on model. eg my Federal Plus 2 had a normally closed microswitch connected to the pod vacuum switch that I used; if this switch is not present I was thinking a second changeover relay may be required.

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