bullet connectors
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I went through my car & just replaced any that looked dodgy (with original style bullets & connectors.) I bought a selection of bullets, connectors & the pro tool from http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product_list/6
I am sure some will disagree, but it's a slippery slope when you start updating things to modern standards...
I am sure some will disagree, but it's a slippery slope when you start updating things to modern standards...
Phil Harrison
1972 Elan Sprint 0260K
1972 Elan Sprint 0260K
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pharriso - Coveted Fifth Gear
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I used modern block connectors for pretty much everything. I only retained bullets in a few places where the wires fit thru a small hole and new bullets were installed on a replacement part, e.g. the bumper mounted license plate lamps on my Plus 2.
Note I was replacing the entire loom with modern thin wall cable. I also purchased a bullet crimping tool kit, but I just could not get reliable connections. The modern connectors work very well, but you need to use a proper professional grade crimping tool.
Anyway, your choice. If you are replacing all the wiring, i would consider the modern route. If just fixing up original, Phil may have it right.
Stu
Note I was replacing the entire loom with modern thin wall cable. I also purchased a bullet crimping tool kit, but I just could not get reliable connections. The modern connectors work very well, but you need to use a proper professional grade crimping tool.
Anyway, your choice. If you are replacing all the wiring, i would consider the modern route. If just fixing up original, Phil may have it right.
Stu
Stu
1969 Plus 2 Federal LHD
1969 Plus 2 Federal LHD
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stugilmour - Coveted Fifth Gear
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pharriso wrote:I went through my car & just replaced any that looked dodgy (with original style bullets & connectors.) I bought a selection of bullets, connectors & the pro tool from http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product_list/6
I am sure some will disagree, but it's a slippery slope when you start updating things to modern standards...
Ah, thanks for that link, I have been looking for one of these tools for years.
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p ... ategory/87
Bill Williams
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
- billwill
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Greg, my kit is the solder / crimp style with a sort of hex shaped crimp. As mentioned, I had difficulty with it and went with modern crimps. The bullet crimps in Phil's link looked way better to me, as they appear to use the same modern crimp tool I had success with.
HTH
Stu
HTH
Stu
Stu
1969 Plus 2 Federal LHD
1969 Plus 2 Federal LHD
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stugilmour - Coveted Fifth Gear
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stugilmour wrote:Greg, my kit is the solder / crimp style with a sort of hex shaped crimp. As mentioned, I had difficulty with it and went with modern crimps. The bullet crimps in Phil's link looked way better to me, as they appear to use the same modern crimp tool I had success with.
HTH
Stu
Did you mean these:
I must confess to using these modern bullets when I need to replace a dirty one.
They crimp easily with a low cost crimping tool and by also crimping the plastic shell over the wire, they are very secure and a bit more waterproof.
Bill Williams
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
- billwill
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I use the brass solder type male bullet connectors and have no problem soldering them on. They also push fully home when connected to the female connector. One tip though is to use standard 60/40 lead/tin solder and not the alloy rubbish that we are being forced to use. I bought some lead solder from Ebay recently. Once assembled I also brush a bit of Waxoyl around each end of the rubber bullet to stop corrosion creeping in.
- William2
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billwill wrote:
Did you mean these:
I must confess to using these modern bullets when I need to replace a dirty one.
They crimp easily with a low cost crimping tool and by also crimping the plastic shell over the wire, they are very secure and a bit more waterproof.
First thing I did was get rid of every one of those things!
Phil Harrison
1972 Elan Sprint 0260K
1972 Elan Sprint 0260K
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pharriso - Coveted Fifth Gear
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yes agree . ugly & naff . the original bullet connectors are better.
Once water gets in to these aluminium plastic things (think nose cone) they'll corrode away in a few years .
people may moan abt the original fittings but they will be 40+yo now, so give 'em a break
soldering properly is a skill to be cherished . proper tools are essential. Given that, some neglected copper wires can be a bugger to clean up. Don't waste your time with lead-free solder & get a decent flux
Once water gets in to these aluminium plastic things (think nose cone) they'll corrode away in a few years .
people may moan abt the original fittings but they will be 40+yo now, so give 'em a break
soldering properly is a skill to be cherished . proper tools are essential. Given that, some neglected copper wires can be a bugger to clean up. Don't waste your time with lead-free solder & get a decent flux
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RichC - Fourth Gear
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I was assuming we mean these as 'Crimp Only'
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p ... category/6
And the socket end with these
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p ... category/6
Also assuming these are the 'Solder or Crimp' original style ones
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p ... category/6
This is the 'Modern Style' crimp type. The crimp is done in two steps, first to the bare wire and second to the insulation to add physical strength. The tangs retain the terminal in the plastic block.
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p ... category/2
I didn't see these flag connectors when I did the loom, but they would be great for all the Plus 2 switches on the lower row that are tight to the heater box. I had to use the ones that crimp with the cheaper type tool with the sort of barrel shaped crimp. These are much better as they use the same two stage crimp; just make sure your crimping tool can access the first crimp to the bare wire.
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p ... category/2
These are the 'Modern' style crimps without the tang if you prefer.
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p ... category/2
This link is the other popular supplier for cable and stuff. This link shows the various crimping tools. The 'Modern' crimp tool profile has a sort of 'W' shape in the die that makes the two open sides of the terminal crimp down separately; they kind of hit each other and roll up. Completely different than the insulated barrel shaped deals that kind of crush down on the wire, The result is a very secure crimp.
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... crimps.php
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p ... ategory/87
HTH
Stu
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p ... category/6
And the socket end with these
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p ... category/6
Also assuming these are the 'Solder or Crimp' original style ones
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p ... category/6
This is the 'Modern Style' crimp type. The crimp is done in two steps, first to the bare wire and second to the insulation to add physical strength. The tangs retain the terminal in the plastic block.
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p ... category/2
I didn't see these flag connectors when I did the loom, but they would be great for all the Plus 2 switches on the lower row that are tight to the heater box. I had to use the ones that crimp with the cheaper type tool with the sort of barrel shaped crimp. These are much better as they use the same two stage crimp; just make sure your crimping tool can access the first crimp to the bare wire.
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p ... category/2
These are the 'Modern' style crimps without the tang if you prefer.
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p ... category/2
This link is the other popular supplier for cable and stuff. This link shows the various crimping tools. The 'Modern' crimp tool profile has a sort of 'W' shape in the die that makes the two open sides of the terminal crimp down separately; they kind of hit each other and roll up. Completely different than the insulated barrel shaped deals that kind of crush down on the wire, The result is a very secure crimp.
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... crimps.php
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p ... ategory/87
HTH
Stu
Stu
1969 Plus 2 Federal LHD
1969 Plus 2 Federal LHD
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stugilmour - Coveted Fifth Gear
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I agree that the old style bullets look better than the modern coloured ones. I soldered and crimped the bullets when I re wired to make absolutely sure of a permanent good connection. No more feeble indicators! Especially in the engine bay when over the years the copper strands can oxidise and the connection degrades.
I did use the modern multipin connector plugs in some places such as for connecting the engine bay loom to the interior loom (behind the glovebox). Also useful to do this with the headlights as only takes a second to disconnect, rather than having to pull bullets out of their connectors.
Richard
I did use the modern multipin connector plugs in some places such as for connecting the engine bay loom to the interior loom (behind the glovebox). Also useful to do this with the headlights as only takes a second to disconnect, rather than having to pull bullets out of their connectors.
Richard
Lotus Elan Sprint FHC 1973
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RichardS - Fourth Gear
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stugilmour wrote:I was assuming we mean these as 'Crimp Only'
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p ... category/6
I did not use any of those.
stugilmour wrote:
Also assuming these are the 'Solder or Crimp' original style ones
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p ... category/6
These are what I have used, in multiple sizes.
Phil Harrison
1972 Elan Sprint 0260K
1972 Elan Sprint 0260K
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pharriso - Coveted Fifth Gear
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pharriso wrote:billwill wrote:
Did you mean these:
I must confess to using these modern bullets when I need to replace a dirty one.
They crimp easily with a low cost crimping tool and by also crimping the plastic shell over the wire, they are very secure and a bit more waterproof.
First thing I did was get rid of every one of those things!
Oh... Why?
Was it to be Original or have you any technical reasons why they should not be used?
Bill Williams
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
- billwill
- Coveted Fifth Gear
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