Ignition Light Stays On - What Next?

PostPost by: richardcox_lotus » Wed Aug 01, 2012 3:29 pm

The key thing with using either Dynamo Or alternator is to avoid excess load on the water pump pulley. I'm still on a dynamo at the mo, & run the fan belt on the loose side. For an alternator make sure the appropriate bracketry (from PM or Spyder) is installed with the correct length belt.

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Richard.
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PostPost by: AlfaLofa » Wed Aug 01, 2012 4:07 pm

Thanks for all the info - I've decided to stick with a dynamo.

I've got a bog standard S1, so no electric fan, electric windows, etc.

And I can't remember the last time I drove with the lights on.
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PostPost by: Galwaylotus » Wed Aug 01, 2012 6:30 pm

I converted last year. I had to make a spacer (short length of steel hydraulic pipe was just the right diameter!) and used the pulley that came with the Lucas alternator as the ratio was better than using the dynamo pulley. I had to get a slightly longer fan belt but the main thing I've found is that I can run the fan belt VERY loose with no squealing even if I run headlamps and the auxiliary electric cooling fan. I sent the tach away to Speedy Cables to get it converted to negative earth and calibrated. It had been reading very high before that. It came back looking like new! :D
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Alternator installation 1.jpg and
P8010001small.jpg and
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Wed Aug 01, 2012 6:32 pm

Fair enough. If you don't need it you don't need it. A good condition Gennie will certainly do your job and keep the originality..

Good decision I think.. All things considered.

Have fun!!

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PostPost by: YellowS4DHC » Sat Aug 11, 2012 3:05 am

Steve

I changed over to an alternator 6 yrs ago but did it in such a way that I could easily convert back at any time. You might consider this as an additional option.

I didn't cut any unused wires from the original loom, I just tucked them neatly out of the way. The wiring that came with my alternator kit (got mine from Ray at RD ent) was added in neatly along side the existing cable runs. Nothing looks out of place. I kept the regulator in place on the firewall and use it only as an electrical junction so I don't have a bare spot there. To reinstall the generator would be a snap if I wanted to.

I can send you a pic if you'd like.

regards
Rick


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PostPost by: 69S4 » Sat Aug 11, 2012 7:38 am

YellowS4DHC wrote:Steve

I changed over to an alternator 6 yrs ago but did it in such a way that I could easily convert back at any time. You might consider this as an additional option.

I didn't cut any unused wires from the original loom, I just tucked them neatly out of the way. The wiring that came with my alternator kit was added in neatly along side the existing cable runs. Nothing looks out of place. I kept the regulator in place on the firewall and use it only as an electrical junction so I don't have a bare spot there. To reinstall the generator would be a snap if I wanted to.

Rick


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'67 S800 Coupe



That's exactly what I did when I converted three or four years ago. I've even kept the original dynamo mounting bracket, just welding in a couple of extra struts to adapt it for the alternator. I wasn't expecting much of a difference but everything seems to work just a little better - wipers, electric cooling fan, windows etc seem to have gone from last gasp to almost reasonable. I suppose it could be just be my imagination but the voltmeter generally now keeps on the charging side of the dial even in traffic.
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PostPost by: AlfaLofa » Sat Aug 11, 2012 8:04 am

The generosity of Maulen7 has got me back on the road. He sent me his old dynamo which he no longer needed following his conversion to an alternator.

He like most people have recommended that I follow the alternator route - which I have now embarked upon!

I've ordered (from AES) - but not yet received - a Dynalite alternator with positive earth. The Dynalite is a lightweight replica of the original dynamo and puts out 40amps.

I've also ordered a dummy control box for use with the Dynalite - so the engine bay will look near enough original.

Regarding the wiring, I too intend to leave the original dynamo wiring in place - but I have already bought uprated wiring to take the extra load between the Dynalite and the dummy control box. I too will fix the new wiring to the existing loom.

When I get all the bits I'll post some pictures.

All very expensive - but you can't take it with you!!

I would have probably ended up spending about the same amount of money (and certainly more effort) had I gone for a conventional "alternator" what with frigging about with mounting brackets, polarity, etc.

I prefer a straight swap and keeping positive earth just to keep things simple and (relatively) original.
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PostPost by: AlfaLofa » Tue Aug 14, 2012 3:45 pm

My positive earth Dynalite C40 Alternator arrived today.

The picture shows the relay which is supplied with the + earth unit. It fits between the ignition switch and the ignition warning light - so a little bit of wire cutting is required. (The relay is not required if the car is negative earth).

The pulley and the fan were extras - as was the dummy control box.

The Dynalite, the pulley and the control box came from AES. The fan was from Holdens.

I'll fit the unit and do the wiring tomorrow (perhaps)
Attachments
014.jpg and
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PostPost by: YellowS4DHC » Wed Aug 15, 2012 1:26 am

Steve,
your pic inspired me to consider dumping my Japanese alternator and getting one myself - and then I looked up the price. Wow, you were right when you said it wasn't cheap, it's nearly double what I paid for my conversion kit. :o

Good luck with the install.

regards
Rick


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PostPost by: AlfaLofa » Sat Aug 18, 2012 5:05 pm

Well the Dynalite is now fitted along with the dummy control box and the relay.

Took the car out for a blast - no problems...

Plus that fabulous noise from the engine/exhaust.

At my age I should know better.
Steve
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