Reverse light switch spanner size and where to buy

PostPost by: jmp » Tue Aug 16, 2011 1:53 pm

For those who have read the earlier thread I have established that the problem lies with the switch itself. There have obviously been problems before as the wires had been extended and not very neatly.

Problem one: what size spanner should it be to remove it as one terminal is bent down making it difficult to get a ring spanner on although I suspect it is 9/16?
Problem two: has anyone sourced one recently as Paul Matty has been trying for months to get hold of some and is considering getting some manufactured?

Once it is out I'll see if it is a problem introduced from a previous repair such as solder bridging the wire terminals or similar.

Just the problem of getting it out that is defeating me at present. It is on the top right hand side of the gearbox and access is available from the nearside after I had removed what looks like a non original aluminium sheet attached via the top bellhousing bolts. All good fun. At the rate I am going I may have to operate the reverse lights remotely when the tester checks the lights or the mot.

All help gratefully received,
Thanks, john
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Tue Aug 16, 2011 2:59 pm

John

Yes, 9/16" fits mine,beware of the wires twisting together as you turn it...

John :wink:
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PostPost by: Craig Elliott » Tue Aug 16, 2011 3:37 pm

John

FWIW, I don't think you need to have a working reversing light to pass the MOT - mine has been out of action for years (I hadn't thought I'd be able to get the switch for a 5 Speed and had just left it, turns out the usual suspects have them) and I've never had a problem.

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PostPost by: stugilmour » Tue Aug 16, 2011 4:24 pm

John, in my area I did need the reverse lights to be operational as designed to pass our MOT equivalent; apparently couldn't use a dash mounted switch or whatever. The reverse switch in both my stock four speed and my replacement five speed didn't work.

I 'solved' the problem with a bit of a bodge. I used a lever action micro switch mounted on the top of the fibreglass transmission tunnel under the plastic console panel. The lever on the micro switch is actuated directly by the shift lever. It was a bit fiddly to get it to work, but found using an aluminum plate to hold the switch worked OK. Not sure if it still works, but worked long enough to pass inspection. :)

I think this is the switch I used, at least similar to give you the idea

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... PerPage=60
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PostPost by: jmp » Tue Aug 16, 2011 5:09 pm

I've just come in for a break after repairing the switch. What a b...er to get it out. 11/16 or 15mm was the correct size. It had had a poor repair previously and was shorting itself out. In view of them being difficult to get hold of at present I have hopefully done a better repair than the previous one. I am not looking forward to replacing it and setting up the tension correctly on the switch though. It has a strong spring which I couldnot compress with my thumb. I only got continuity by pressing it against the wall. I've no doubt getting it set up correctly in the gearbox will ensure the air being blue well into the night.

Thanks again for all the help.

No doubt further problems to follow now this is virtually solved.

John
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PostPost by: robertverhey » Tue Aug 16, 2011 9:43 pm

I thought these switches were pretty common across the small ford range of the time (with triple rail box) eg http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ESCORT-MK1-1 ... 3cb2fb5a81

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PostPost by: crannyr » Wed Aug 17, 2011 12:04 am

[b]I am not looking forward to replacing it and setting up the tension correctly on the switch though. It has a strong spring which I couldnot compress with my thumb. I only got continuity by pressing it against the wall. I've no doubt getting it set up correctly in the gearbox will ensure the air being blue well into the night


Set up should not be too difficult if before you reinstall the switch you put the gearbox into reverse. Then as you screw in the switch (connected to your harness) the backup lights should go on when the switch is correctly set. An extra 1/2 turn may be appropriate to allow for wear and shaft play.
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Wed Aug 17, 2011 8:54 am

John

Just re-measured,I get the switch as 5/8" and the locknut as 9/16"...

Also,the Escort one looks like it has only one terminal whereas mine has two...

John :wink:
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PostPost by: robertverhey » Wed Aug 17, 2011 12:21 pm

Aaah yes i see from Rdent website that it is indeed a two-wire setup. Interesting. Are the wires on the live side of the lights, or on the earth side? Different to early Cortinas then, where a single terminal is earthed by the switch when reverse is selected.

Later models had this type, I think. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-REVERSE ... 4cf938ab95 Might get you out of trouble too, I guess.
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