Electrical jam

PostPost by: spridget » Fri Jun 17, 2011 8:04 pm

Kevin,
Do you think I can connect these wires to each other without a risk to add my car on Richard?s list :mrgreen:

Gerry,
You?re right, I ?ll check with a volt meter

Frank,
GalwayLotus is right, my English doesn?t allow me to always find the right words but I was talking about intensity :wink:

Franck
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PostPost by: Frank Howard » Fri Jun 17, 2011 8:10 pm

Franck,

Let me assure you that your English is way better than my French! :wink:
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PostPost by: spridget » Sat Jun 18, 2011 7:02 am

Franck, you're very kind !
And all of you too for your fast and very usefull replies.
As you know Frank, you can go everywhere in the world, you'll find english spoken people. Try to do that with french language..... :lol:
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PostPost by: pauljones » Sat Jun 18, 2011 7:29 am

Franck,

I too have/had simmilar problems,just look at my other post and you will see the wiring birds nest that I have...To sort this out im taking a bit of a drastic approach,to completly rewire the car and up grade the loom while im at it.Living next door to an sparky helps.Advice relating to:

Bad earths, already mentioned.

Too many earths on a common point,not said before as far as I can see but apparently major companies recomend only 4 earths maximum on a common point.

Not enougth relay systems in the loom,ill be using relays for head lights,fans,fuel pump ect.

Contition and size off the origonal wiring,Mine is poor,Hard and in some cases brittle to the point of snapping off.Im going to use generaly bigger all round,especialy on earths.My sparky says as the lengths are small,then resistance is minimal to nothing.

Common "FEEDS", I seem to have lots of items connected together for power at the fuse box,they could be seperated and fused individualy.

A lot of the things that he said to me now seem common sense,Im not a sparky but I can see the benifits of a new loom.It does come down to a point on origonality too,But I dont want mine to go up in flames,so im quite happy to have a non standard loom/electrical system.

As for a bigger alternator,some time ago,some one calculated the load,I cant find it but its on here some where.The end result was really just to use the 45amp as its fine,

I hope that helps,a little.

Paul
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PostPost by: Frank Howard » Sat Jun 18, 2011 1:22 pm

pauljones915 wrote:Too many earths on a common point,not said before as far as I can see but apparently major companies recomend only 4 earths maximum on a common point.

Paul,

I'm a "minor company" and I say that is hogwash. If the common point is say a 1/4" bolt or stud, that's like running electricity through a wire that is 1/4" thick which is plenty to carry the load. I did think the rest of your advice was good though.
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PostPost by: pauljones » Sat Jun 18, 2011 3:42 pm

Frank H,

Im not a Sparky by any grounds and I must go by the advice that Im given,I would not like to discredit you at all as your more in the know than me.So if you say its OK then its OK by me,My advice was given to me by a neighbour who works for a company that only recomends 4 per point.Not sure why,but thats what he said.As a question,is there anything wrong with this practice or is it serious over kill on saftey side?

Paul
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PostPost by: Frank Howard » Sat Jun 18, 2011 8:19 pm

Paul,

Nothing wrong with it. It's just overkill. Let's put it this way. If you connected 4 grounds to a piece of 18 gauge wire and then connected the wire to a 1/4" bolt which was screwed into the chassis, the 18 gauge wire could heat up and possibly melt depending on the load.

If you bypassed the 18 gauge wire and connected the 4 grounds directly to the 1/4" bolt that was screwed into the chassis, there is no way that the bolt or the chassis would heat up because both the bolt and the chassis are more than sufficient to handle the load.
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PostPost by: spridget » Sat Jul 09, 2011 6:01 am

Well, the +2 is now back in my garage, so I checked the pulley diameter which
is around 65 mm. I ?ve also dismantled the RB106 control box which is unneeded
with an alternator.
I took out all the internals and I have welded A1, A and D terminals together to connect the larger wires.

P1010461.JPG and


P1010458.JPG and


The thin ones are connected on the F terminal which was previously unconnected from D terminal.

The engine bay keeps its original look

P1010463.JPG and


It works fine, no smoke or flame appear after starting engine :mrgreen: !

Anyway it hasn?t changed a lot about poor electrical powerfull but now I?m sure the working regulator is the alternator one.

Next job checking all earth terminals :roll:

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