Bezel (switch nut) remover tool

[RotoFlexible]

I'm sure many of you have already devised or purchased a tool to loosen and tighten the slotted bezels (nuts) that secure the ignition and windshield wiper switches to the dash (along with the choke and heater cables). I hadn't come up with anything satisfactory and my switches were never tight. I finally tracked down this tool set at Moss Motors. The wrenches are industrial strength and work a treat. I expect no more problems with spinning switches.

[Frank Howard]

Andrew,

Very nice however for very little or no money, I made my own. I simply ground the teeth off an old dull 7/8" hole saw leaving a little metal to form the two "teeth". I think it was 7/8" but I don't know for sure because at the moment, it is out on loan to a guy in our club who is restoring his S4 FHC.

[billwill]

I'm sure many of you have already devised or purchased a tool to loosen and tighten the slotted bezels (nuts) that secure the ignition and windshield wiper switches to the dash (along with the choke and heater cables). I hadn't come up with anything satisfactory and my switches were never tight. I finally tracked down this tool set at Moss Motors. The wrenches are industrial strength and work a treat. I expect no more problems with spinning switches.

I made something very similar from an old piece of thin steel tube. I think it was a broken curtain rail or somesuch.

[Frank Howard]

The advantage of the hole saw is that it has a hex end so you can tighten or loosen it with a ratchet and socket, not that you need to torque it all that much. It's just a lot more convenient than dealing with a rod through the tube to rotate it.

[summerinmaine]

The advantage of the hole saw is that it has a hex end so you can tighten or loosen it with a ratchet and socket, not that you need to torque it all that much. It's just a lot more convenient than dealing with a rod through the tube to rotate it.

I did mine like billwill. If it doesn't work with bare hands, then there's something wrong, and I would worry more about over doing it if I had a hex end.

[Frank Howard]

That applies to tightening it but what if it's corroded or the PO tightened it so tight that you can't loosen it with your bare hands? That's when the hex head, ratchet, and socket really come in handy. I'm just trying to explain the benefits of a hole saw with a hex head verses a smooth piece of pipe. If you modify the hole saw, you don't have to use the hex head. You can always use your bare hands. The hex head just gives you the option of applying more leverage if you need it using a standard socket and ratchet. In addition, the Moss ad says,

"...to be effective, they need to be made from hard steel or the teeth don?t last."

The hole saw is made of hardened steel.

[Jason1]

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp? ... ubCatID=28

?16.50

[summerinmaine]

That applies to tightening it but what if it's corroded or the PO tightened it so tight that you can't loosen it with your bare hands? That's when the hex head, ratchet, and socket really come in handy. I'm just trying to explain the benefits of a hole saw with a hex head verses a smooth piece of pipe. If you modify the hole saw, you don't have to use the hex head. You can always use your bare hands. The hex head just gives you the option of applying more leverage if you need it using a standard socket and ratchet. In addition, the Moss ad says,

"...to be effective, they need to be made from hard steel or the teeth don?t last."

The hole saw is made of hardened steel.

Didn't have that problem. so I didn't even think about it. You're right, of course.

But I'm not sure how often Moss thinks the tool would be used. Maybe I just don't futz with my dash enough.