Lotus Elan

Alternator install questions

PostPost by: collins_dan » Thu Oct 15, 2009 2:15 am

Question 1 - The factory manual just says to tension the fan belt appropriately...exactly what does that mean? I know that I don't want it too tight or I'll wear out my water pump, but too loose and I won't get a charge. How do I get it just right?

Question 2 - I'm planning to replace my voltage regulator with a terminal block, and it mentions in the directions that they were installed vertically on the Plus 2's. Can someone post a picture of where it should be placed?

Thanks, Dan
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PostPost by: Frank Howard » Thu Oct 15, 2009 4:05 am

collins_dan wrote:I know that I don't want it too tight or I'll wear out my water pump, but too loose and I won't get a charge. How do I get it just right?

Dan,

I have mine as loose as I can get away with without the belt starting to slip. If it slips, it lets you know because it makes noise. As long as it is not slipping, you will be getting the full charge. Sincle installing mine, I've had to adjust it once and that was in the middle of a 600 mile trip when it began to scream. I just tightened it slightly leaving it still loose but tight enough to make the noise stop. It should be ready for another adjustment in another 6,000 miles or so.
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PostPost by: Ross Robbins » Thu Oct 15, 2009 4:33 pm

Dan,

The standard test for belt tightness for as long as I can remember (and I am very old) has been to allow 1/2 inch of deflection between the two pulleys. I have always allowed a strong 1/2 inch and as Frank says as long as it doesn't screech it is working properly. I guess the theory is that if it can deflect that much it can't be too tight. HTH.
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PostPost by: collins_dan » Sun Oct 18, 2009 9:59 pm

Alternator install is complete. It was very straightforward. The only thing that I did that deviated from the kit, was that I got a alternator tension bracket off an old 900 series Volvo at the junkyard. The turnbuckle style adjuster link that came with the kit was a bit wide, so it made it hard to get the dipstick in and out, and it was pressed against the alternator, so didn't adjust very well.

Dan
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PostPost by: bast0n » Wed Oct 21, 2009 9:05 am

Good Morning Dan - the picture below may give you some food for thought. Water pump belt as slack as Mr Chapman intended and the alternator belt as tight as you like. Works brilliantly and just needs the double pulley turning up and a bit of fiddling!

All the best,
David

jsf_DSC04780.jpg and
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PostPost by: SADLOTUS » Wed Oct 21, 2009 1:30 pm

David that is cool and obvious! - I like it - why didn't I think of that :roll:
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PostPost by: bast0n » Wed Oct 21, 2009 2:58 pm

SadLotus

If you would like to go down the double pulley route, and maintain the original Crank pulley diameters I can give you the part number of the belts needed. (took ages of tooing and froing to find exactly the correct belt). To change the water pump belt you have to remove the top pulley - but you never need to!!

All the best, David
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PostPost by: SADLOTUS » Wed Oct 21, 2009 3:49 pm

Hi David - just sent you a PM, but really I think it should be on here for all to see:

Hi David, yes please, belt sizes would be useful - when I'll actually get around to doing it is another thing! but in the new year I hope.

I remember matching up belt partnumbers to the length of belt required, (I think the partnumber has a length on it -with some manufacters) then scrummaging through the racks.

If this helps- I'm all for it.

Was the double pulley easy to get made?

regards
Paul
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PostPost by: bast0n » Wed Oct 21, 2009 4:45 pm

My reply to SadLotus!!

Jeff ? thanks for your message. The belt for the water pump is marked AVX 10 x 5751 made by Rofan part number I think!! 0675. To get the pulleys made I gave a crankshaft pulley and an alternator pulley to the machinists and said make the crankshaft pulley a twin and then offset the alternator pulley grove to match the outer grove in the crank one! Don?t forget the Woodruff key slot in the crank pulley and also to make sure that they machine out the inner part of the alternator pulley to allow the big nut to fit onto the thread on the alternator. I hope that the enclosed drawings help you. Washers behind the alternator securing nut and spacers on the alternator brackets can fine tune the line up!! Tickety Boo and good luck!

I have drawings available that I can email anyone out there who is interested

David.

PS to you all - the photo posted in my earlier post was a trial installation and not entirely as it is now - but the idea is the same.......................!!
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PostPost by: prezoom » Wed Oct 21, 2009 5:11 pm

Hi David,

Terrific idea. I have made crankshaft pulleys in the past for various projects. But they are a lot of work. Curious how you marked the pulley for the timing mark. I made a jig to hold and locate the old pulley and marked the required timing marks on the jig. Then replaced the old pulley with the new one and transfered the marks. However I was doing a run of pulleys for others. Do you have a better, easier solution?

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PostPost by: bast0n » Wed Oct 21, 2009 5:22 pm

Rob - I think I just lined up the Woodruff key tracks and whacked in a mark corresponding with the one on the old pulley! Close enough for government work!!

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PostPost by: el torro » Sun Oct 04, 2015 6:51 pm

the car I have came with burton power flat toothed belt type ,I am having trouble getting the alternator and water pump pulleys to line up with crank one whitch I think must be all right as it is keyed in and tight, any help is truly welcomed as I am at a loss how to solve this,the engine was rebuilt when I got it with new water pump fitted,but was shrunk wrapped out of car,with all bits not fitted
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