Small/mini alternator

[Frank Howard]

:shock: Are you confident that your primary wiring (everything associated with the supply side connecting alternator, battery, and ammeter) is up to the maximum output capability of your upgraded alternator?

There is only one wire that carries a large load (alternator output) consequently this wire is the only wire to be concerned with as far as proper gage is concerned. The large brown/yellow wire that came from Lucas for generator output is big enough however, when I took my alternator off of the Mazda 323, I took three or four feet of the Mitsubitshi alternator output wire because I wanted to use the Mitsubitshi connectors on the Mitsubitshi alternator. Also, I needed a longer run because instead of connecting to the voltage regulator, the wire had to go to the dash board in order to plug into the ammeter I installed. Again, the gage of the Mitsubitshi alternator output wire is no larger than the gage of the Lucas generator output wire so to answer your question, I am confident and further, (knock on the wooden dash board) I have experienced no charging problems since I installed it two years ago.

[SADLOTUS]

I'm only asking about smaller alternators because I think they allow more working space, look a bit neater and although they save some weight, (I'm sure I could save the same amount just by missing lunch) it's part curiosity and part preparation - the Ford/Leyland/Lucas one I've had on for years is bound to give up sooner or later. The wiring was changed from dynamo to alternator back in oooh... 1981ish. So maybe you do have a point there after all, plenty of scope for a small bonfire, so if I do change - good point Frank - pinch the wire and connectors off the doner car.

[jkolb]

I have the small Denso unit (50A) with the DB ribbed belt and pulleys. Fabricated the lower mount from my old mount, and a tensioner with two heim joints and a threaded section of aluminum tube. Looks and works great.

A word of caution on ammeters. wiring to the ammeter carries the entire current developed by the generator/alternator, with no fuse protection. If this shorts behind the dash, you have a very dangerous meltdown. In fact it is like having an out of control mini arc welder at work (1950 Chevy in my school days). I like to use a voltmeter. I know it doesn't measure current, but I mostly use it to give me advance warning if the belt goes.

Jerry

[1964 S1]

I too did the rdent conversion. Seemed a bit pricey but works fine, anyone with more electromechanical knowledge than I could do it all for sixty or seventy bucks in the USA.