Lotus Elan

Best Ignition Improvements?

PostPost by: seaandmoor » Thu Feb 16, 2006 9:21 pm

Hello again everyone.
I know about all the earthing issues/reduction gear pre-engage starters but could I have views/first hand experience of changes to just the ignition in order to improve starting and running.
Particularly interested in anything which has been tried to get rid of the usual recurrent problems associated with centrifugal advance/points/distributor rotor etc. Any well proven kit/supplier out there which gives the right spark at the right time every time?
Thanks in advance as always get a good response here as well as a lot of kindly advice. Oh by the way car is a November 1973 +2S 130.
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PostPost by: Hamish Coutts » Thu Feb 16, 2006 10:40 pm

Hi,

Got a 1973 S130 as well!! (Logoon Blue, metaflake roof).

The car is fairly lively. Engine set up is -
~ Standard Distributor.
~ NGK BP7es plugs with 25 thou gap.
~Standard coil (see Keith's many posts on coils - think he approves of a standard coil).
~ Magnecor (blue) plug leads.
~ Lumenition ignition (from the 70's).
~ the usual wandering rev counter.

Regards,

Hamish.

Works fine for me.
"One day I'll finish the restoration - honest, darling, just a few more years....."
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PostPost by: berni29 » Fri Feb 17, 2006 12:41 am

Hi There

If you want to get rid of the distributor and do not mind some DIY you could fit a Ford EDIS system. Do a google on it for further inf........ I find that getting rid of the points is good enough as long as the rest of the sytem is in good shape.

Berni
Racing green +2s with green tints. See it at:

www.searchsmart.co.uk/lotus
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PostPost by: pamitchell » Fri Feb 17, 2006 2:35 am

I upgraded to a Mallory Unilite distributor and Magnecor wires. The
Mallory unit is an optical unit made for the Pinto engine. Mallory Tech Services provide a low height cap and set the advance curve.
I then installed a Mallory Hyfire VI-AL digital box which required a major conversion to the RVI tach. Thank goodness the Sunbeam Tiger guys have gone down this road and were able to wire in a circuit board that reads the digital signal. I can feel improvement in throttle response, starting and power. My S4 Stromberg Elan was dynoed @ 125 hp before the Mallory conversion and adjustable needles. I expect 130 hp on the next dyno run.
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PostPost by: chrishewett » Fri Feb 17, 2006 8:06 am

Hi,
I have a 1971 S130 which is running very well.
I fitted Aldon electronic ignition which I bought complete in a new dizzy from them. I also use their flamethrower coil. 20 thou gaps.
The car goes like snot off a chickens lip and the tacho works as well!
Chris
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PostPost by: cbguerrajr » Fri Feb 17, 2006 7:44 pm

All of these systems require negative ground conversion, I assume.
I could not find archived messages describing the required steps...
Any tips on doing that?
Thanks
Carlos
(1966 S2)
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PostPost by: elans3 » Fri Feb 17, 2006 9:49 pm

Hi, I also use an Aldon Ignitor with Lucas Gold coil. I've used one of these on two Elans now, and think they're the bees knees. Junked the Lumenition which was on the car ehen I got it to put this on, they've always given me problems.
Much simpler and easy to fit. Tacho works too.
Car starts on the button, is crisper and goes better.
Aldon also do a positive earth version for a slight premium. Talk direct to them. I bought my pos. earth one from them for my '66 S3 Dhc
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PostPost by: alaric » Sat Feb 18, 2006 1:02 am

Sean,

I've just got my engine running for the first time - it was rebuilt several years ago and has been in the lounge as a decorative item since. It's great - sounds gorgeous and very responsive on the throttle. The engine's mounted in the chassis with the T9 gearbox fitted, the radiator hanging off the front, the fuel coming from a plastic can and the exhaust hanging from cable ties. But it's great! Anyway, I'm a bit like a schoolkid with a new toy at the moment.

I have an Aldon Ignitor LU-142A fitted in place of the points. It's a solid state electronic ignition module that sits in the distributor. The wiring is simple; the red lead goes to the positive side of the coil (the ignition switch side) and powers the module, and the black lead goes to the negative side. The unit breaks the earth path from the primary coil in the same way the the original points did, so I can't see why this would affect the rev counter. No more points to adjust, and a big fat spark.

One concern I have though, is that I have no cover over the distributor cap to keep the damp out. Is there one that can be fitted, or is it easier just to get some silicon sealant involved?

I did consider fitting an ignition management system during the rebuild. I could have bought this through QED, or from the supplier of the system directly for less money, and with a rolling road dyno tune thrown in. The system has a crank case sensor etc. I decided to leave it until the rest of car was finished and do it as a future upgrade.

Sean.
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