Electrical Problems

[Galwaylotus]

It seems I've ony partially cured my electrical ills. I now find I get intermittent tach failure. It sometimes doesn't work until I've driven for a while but then it's ok. The fuel gauge seems to work all the time now.
There is another interesting development. I had a meeting yesterday about 70 miles from home so I took the Elan. Great drive to and from the meeting but I decided to then take it to choir rehearsal after dinner. When I came out at 22:45, I discovered my headlamps won't work!! Interesting trip home. Thankfully it was only about three miles through the city!

[Robbie693]

I had a similar problem with the tach and indicators (not the headlights though), the fuses looked ok but I replaced them incase and the problem was solved. Maybe, as cleaning the fuses helped, it's worth putting some new ones in to check?

Cheers

Robbie

[billwill]

When you cleaned the fuses did you also clean the clips that they plug into?

A bit of emery paper wrapped around a match stick does that trick.

[Galwaylotus]

When you cleaned the fuses did you also clean the clips that they plug into?

A bit of emery paper wrapped around a match stick does that trick.

I did but can probably do a better job. Will eventually replace them with blade fuses and possibly move to inside the passenger compartment. I did that wih my Mini and that was the end of corrosion problems!!

[Galwaylotus]

I had a similar problem with the tach and indicators (not the headlights though), the fuses looked ok but I replaced them incase and the problem was solved. Maybe, as cleaning the fuses helped, it's worth putting some new ones in to check?

Cheers

Robbie

Looks as though I may have a S1-S2 harness as the colours don't match the S3 wiring diagram. The lights are probably something simple like the microswitch or relay. I'll have to meter everything out when I have the time and weather for it!

[Galwaylotus]

Update. I've made some progress. Before the rain came today, I made it to Maplin and bought a DPDT switch. Got home and made some cross liinks as in the Elan's window switches. Metered it and got the expected results. I then connected the cables from right window in the Elan and my driver's window went up and down on command. For some reason both window switches seem to have failed in the same way so now all I need is two original style switches and I'll be back in business!
I started tracing cables for my other issues. It seems I have a S1-S2 harness as there are three green cables coming off the fuse box with a white cable feeding both the 25A and 20A fuses. There is also a Purple/White cable to the feed side of the 25A fuse and a Red cable to the feed side of the 20A fuse.

[prezoom]

For corroded bullets, connectors, fuse blocks, etc, use white vinegar. Remove the fuse block and throw it into a jar of vinegar, let it sit for a while, remove and brush contacts with a brass brush. Will look like new.

Rob Walker
26-4889

[Galwaylotus]

Thanks for the tip. Beats fine grit paper!!

[Galwaylotus]

26 April Update:
I pulled out both window switches, took them apart, cleaned the contacts and sprayed switch cleaner/lube into them then reassembled. I now have contact at each point where I expected it. Too late to put them back in the car as it's now dark out but will do tomorrow.
I also found a few other things, The horns work if I put voltage across them but the PB cable is connected to the small contact button in the steering wheel and the horn push switch works but it should complete a circuit to the steering wheel hub. It does but the hub isn't earthed! Where should it be connected so I can use the horn?
I discovered my electric fuel pump had been wired to the supply side of the fuse panel so it wasn't fused! It's now on the downstream side of the 25A fuse. The PW cable to the horns wasn't fused either and so I've moved it to the ouput of the 25A fuse. As soon as I can earth the steering wheel I'll be able to use the horn.
My headlamps are still not working but I didn't want to start the engine and let it idle from cold so I'll leave that for another time - possibly a Saturday when I can tackle it after a run. Don't think it's the microswiches as neither headlamp goes on - but that's a recent problem as they worked a few weeks ago.
We're getting there thanks to help from you folks.

[neilsjuke]

The earth to the steering coloum needs a earth to chassi at the rack end and past the uj check with tester .
Neil

[Galwaylotus]

Thanks, Neil. I'll check it out.

[billwill]

My steering Universal joint has a wire from a column bolt to a rack bolt to be sure that the column is earthed, because the U/J is rubber.

I seem to remember.

[Galwaylotus]

Update
I haven't earthed the steering column yet but I cleaned contacts on the headlamp relay with s brass brush on my Dremel and they polished up like new. Now the lights work. I reinstalled the window switches after pulling them apart and cleaning them and now my windows work! I'm working my way through the list.

[ecamiel]

I use Chemtronics KontacT Restorer on my cars and boat.
800 645 5244 www.chemtronics.com.
It is MIRACULOUS !
Saves replacing switches.
It cleans and protects switches, contacts and connectors without disassembly. I spray every connector and into every switch and all the electrical gremlins go away. And I have higher voltage at the coil and lights. I was losing just a little through each of the ignition and all the other switches and connectors.
This is professional grade stuff and works much better than the over the counter stuff. It is expensive but well worth it.
Usual disclaimers

Eric
64 S1

[Galwaylotus]

Doesn't seem to be available in Europe.