Electric light pods

PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Mon Aug 18, 2008 4:18 pm

Plan B
On my way to Tatton found the problem re-occuring(winking pods)..probably due to wind pressure and road vibration....removed the fuse as a temp measure..

Have now decided to remove the rotary contact switch in the motors and elongate the "off segments" so that the inertia of the motors do not drive past this onto the on segment....

Will update soon..
John :wink:
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Sat May 19, 2012 12:47 pm

...and the finished article

John :wink:
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PostPost by: Chancer » Sat May 19, 2012 8:15 pm

Looks very neat and as if it was always that way.

At the risk of offending the person who posted the photos of their installation on page 1 (it was 2008 so hopefully they wont read this) I was absolutely shocked to see the abortion, even in the bad old days when Elans were worth a cup of tea and a bun you rarely saw lash ups of that proportion.

Meccano is your friend :roll:
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PostPost by: Jason1 » Sun May 20, 2012 8:09 am

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Temp installation to get bracket size and mounting points. It is very light weight but not strong enough to be a perm installation.

Glad you liked it though. :lol:
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PostPost by: Chancer » Sun May 20, 2012 10:17 am

And I am glad that you are still on the forum and that I havnt made an enemy :)

Some of my atttempts at "improving" my first vehicles were far worse than that :wink:

I remember at 17 trying to fit air horns to my MGB and using a starter solenoid as a relay, I dont think at that stage I knew what a relay was, trouble is that it was negative earth and the B was positive, my solution was to "insulate the casing from the car body and to wire the casing to positive and connect the terminal to earth, how did I do this? By dropping the solenoid into a small cardboard box and securing the top flap to the inner wing with self tappers, I did use penny washers though, I wasnt stupid you know! Well not totally :lol:
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PostPost by: Frank Howard » Thu May 31, 2012 3:34 pm

john.p.clegg wrote:....driven from the lighting switch (second position) so no need for the vacuum switch...(any ideas?)
John,

Once I completed my conversion, I attached my original plastic knob to an MGB light switch and installed it . The switch has three positions, off, parking, and headlights. I wired it so that the positions are off, lights up but off, and lights up and on. I use the lights up but off position if I want to flash to pass or if I want to clean the headlights without them being turned on. Because the switch no longer sits in the recessed cup, it more closely resembles the cigar lighter giving the dash a more symmetrical look.

The parking, tail, and side lights are still controlled by the rocker switch. That switch now controls that panel lights as well. When I want to turn on the lights, all I have to do is pull out the knob on the MGB switch and flip the rocker that is right next to it.

And what does the panel switch control? Nothing. I replaced it with a momentary washer switch and wired it to the transmitter for my garage door opener. You can run 12v through a 9v transmitter and you'll never have to replace the battery. Very pleased with the results.
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