tacho part 3

[Ennva]

Following Rohan's instructions wiring the accuspark from a direct feed, the car wont start, I assume power is still required to the coil - any thoughts appreciated

[mbell]

I am not familiar with the accuspark but on my pertronix setup you:
- Connect the coil to 12V as before.
- Connect the GND wire from elec ignition to the ground side of the coil.
- Connect the 12V line to the elec ignition to a switched 12v, separate from the coil.

On my +2 car I have the ignition 12v wire to the starter solenoid. I've added mine to the same wiring as my electronic fuel pump, so it is protected by a fuse and inertia switch. This means should I be involved in a crash (that triggers the inertia switch) the fuel pump will be stopped and the ignition will be cut. Ensuring the engine is stopped.

I am not sure if this set up will avoid issue with the tach or not. If it doesn't I either add a relay to power the pump & ignition or get the tach updated.

[rgh0]

The white wire from the tach still goes to the coil positive. This needs to show 12 volts when ignition is on and also when engine cranking a little less due to voltage drop when starter is operating.

Check The red wire to the accuspark from a separate switch supply also shows 12 volts when ignition on and a little less when cranking. Ignition switch contact fouling problems can cause some of the switched 12v supply points to loose voltage when you turn the key to the power the starter. This is not normally noticed as it returns once the car is started but presents a problem if it cause the electronic ignition to not work !!

Check the black wire to the coil negative from the accuspark is making a good connection and you have the coil connections the right way around - look for the small + and - signs on the coil next to the low voltage connections.

Check if you are getting a spark out of the coil when cranking and also at the plugs
if spark at coil but not at plugs then check the rotor and cap are ok

if spark at plugs but still not starting then check the timing is set ok.

cheers
Rohan

[stugilmour]

Check The red wire to the accuspark from a separate switch supply also shows 12 volts when ignition on and a little less when cranking. Ignition switch contact fouling problems can cause some of the switched 12v supply points to loose voltage when you turn the key to the power the starter. This is not normally noticed as it returns once the car is started but presents a problem if it cause the electronic ignition to not work !!

I had exactly this issue with mine, and it was a difficult issue to find. Plus 1 on Rohan's suggested checks for voltage drop at the key switch in the run & start positions. or non-connection in the start position.

Stu

[bob_rich]

Hi Ennva

I have attached a marked up drawing I did earlier for someone who wanted to use an accuspark. While I dont have experience of the accuspark it may be that the battery voltage falls too low on engine cranking so that the electronics in the accuspark will not operate. To confirm this, wire up as the diagram attached here but use s separate +12V battery just to power the accuspark coil system and see how that works

Hope this helps best of luck

Bob

[billwill]

Hi ennva,

Just a small point, it doesn't help us to help you if you keep splitting the topic across multiple threads. It makes it hard to follow and review the problem.

It would have been better to not create "tacho part 2" and "tacho part 3" and merely continue adding more & more to the first thread.


Oh well, next time....