S2 alternator retrofit

[CG901]

Read many of the posts on this topic, and it seems replacing the dynamo with a Lucas ACR16 or 17, is doable, however, will this work on a LHD (US) car? I was told there could be a problem with fouling the steering column, and this is why the small Nippon Denso units may be favored for US cars. There is only 1/2" difference in diameter between the two units. I see that RD, and Dave Bean have the smaller Nippon Densos as kits with brackets and wiring harness included. Anybody tried the Lucas approach?

[prezoom]

To get clearance, I used a Denso alternator from a Metro Geo/Suzuki. Grabbed it from a pack-a-part, also grabbed the wiring harness plug to the alternator, which simplified wiring issues. Had to make a mounting bracket and change the pulley from a multi-groove. Works perfectly and replacement units are available from most parts houses.

Rob Walker
26-4889

[CG901]

Rob, thanks. Is there a wiring schematic for the denso alternator loom? Can you post it? Any idea what the denso pulley shaft diameter is? Thanks

[CG901]

Rob, is this a 55amp version?

[65ginetta]

The Lucas alternator will fit but you will need to modify the top adjustment bracket to permit steering column clearance. I got all the parts from Paul Matty and was an easy job to modify and fit

[CG901]

Thanks, 65ginetta. Were you able to use the existing dynamo mounting bracket, and simply fill the void with a sleeved spacer? do you have a photo showing close up of the top adjustment bracket, and the lower mounting bracket in position with the steering column? Thanks, Scott

[prezoom]

The alternator shaft diameter is 15mm and the alternator has the normal 3 wire connection. And yes, it is a 55 amp unit. As far as the wiring goes, it is a bit twisted. In my case, I removed the control box and replaced it with a 10 position fuse box from a Datsun 240Z, replacing the stock 2 fuse unit and located in the same position as the original control box. I also divided the wiring circuits, fusing each circuit, head lights, side lights, brake lights, ignition, wipers, fan, etc., individually. Using fuses for each circuit based upon the load. I even split up the headlight circuits for low and high beams. All this required moving and dividing almost all of the wiring, not as difficult as it sounds. I did this in order to prevent overloading any of the existing wiring from a high current draw, read high resistance connection or short to ground. So far, it has worked as designed. When a friend accompanied me on a tour, he offered to bring along a GPS. I made a temporary connection to the ignition switch to feed the GPS. That proved to be just enough of an extra draw to operate the ignition fuse, shutting down the car. Exactly as I had planned. Replaced the fuse, removed the GPS and all was good. The GPS was then rewired, after stopping at a parts house for a fuse holder, some connectors, additional wire, and connected directly to the starter solenoid with a spade connector.

Rob Walker
26-4889

[65ginetta]

Scott
I will take pictures of the mounting brackets and how close the alternator is to the steering column when I am back at my workshop later this week. The cylinder block mount is specific for the alternator, also the top adjuster mount needed some slight adjustment to change the arc and improve the column clearance. I also sourced a slightly longer drive belt to avoid overloading the water pump with the pulley moved farther away from the crankshaft center line.

[65ginetta]

[attachment=1]20131128
Scott
Pictures as promised. I measured the column clearance at about 1/2" I also took a picture of the block mounting brackets and top adjuster, these are all dry built for fit and adjustment, I'll replace plain nuts with nylocs when fitting the head. My A/C conversion efforts are proving more tricky and have slowed progress.
Hope the pictures help, Happy Thanksgiving.

[CG901]

Thanks, 65ginetta. Great photos illustrating the clearance to steering column. Your build really looks great. Thanks for the help. Scott