Distributor Replacement

[Galwaylotus]

I spent the afternoon between showers trying to reinstall my distributor. I got it in and installed the clamp screw then when I went to turn on the ignition to check static timing, I turned the key too far and disturbed the setup. I pulled the No. 1 plug and ensured I was at TDC then backed it up a little and brought the timing point and pulley notch in-line. I then found the timing light wouldn't go off so I must have installed the distributor off by a tooth or two. How do you get the alignment spot on and is there a sane way to get the clamp screw back in?! I had to pull the screw again and then the rain came and I had to leave it (dist covered by a plastic bag). It'll be Saturday before I can get back to it because it's dark each evening when I get home from work.

[twincamman]

ok ---we did this once before --leave the clamp bolted to the block --loosen the clamp bolt on the dist shaft enough to with draw the dist free-and remove the cap --1-- with the low tension wire adjacent to the block and 2 -- the slot in the dist shaft at 6 o'clock insert the gear ---this will move the shaft to the right putting the rotor pointing at #1 - remember 1342 ----the clamp s will be at 90 degrees to the block -and the hi tension wire spade to your right --assuming the cams are in correct position and the crank is in the correct position with the pulley at plus 5 degrees you spark a plug by rotating the dist -with the ignition on -this determines which is number 1 -[the plug will be out of the hole and grounded on the head ----] I keep one plug for this purpose --check the wires are in their proper firing order ---this will get you started ---then drive south to a sunnier clime -ed----------------with the rotor shaft in this position as shown in the pic------one will be up and at about 2oclock three will be next four and two at the bottom ------don't forget the rotor tip that fires the plug is opposite to the slot

[carrierdave]

First question - What position is number one spark plug lead on your distributor cap? - If its at 10/11 oclock then folow this.
Do remember there are two positions where you can line up the mark on the crank sproket, one will be at TDC on a compression stroke the other will be on an exhaust stroke.

The way MW states to do this (without the cam cover on) is to have the two lobes of number 4 cylinder pointing to each other - As you have your cam cover on this becomes difficult.

Therefore if you have not removed the distriutor - turn the engine to TDC (or to where it would normally point to the number 1 cap position. - check the position of the rotor arm - it should point to around 10/11 oclock.

if its down at 6/5 oclock then you need to rotate the crank one full turn.

Once it is at 10/11 turn the distrubutor body so that the number one plug position is at the same point as the rotor arm. If you have points and a light bulb you can use this to check when the point break.

Then tighten up the clamp.

[ncm]

Don't forget that you can see number 4 exhaust cam lobe through the oil filler cap hole in the cam cover.
Brian.

[paddy]

The way MW states to do this (without the cam cover on) is to have the two lobes of number 4 cylinder pointing to each other - As you have your cam cover on this becomes difficult.

If you remove the oil filler cap you can see the no 4 lobe on the exhaust cam if it's in the right position (pointing towards the inlet side).

Paddy

[Galwaylotus]

Thanks, guys. When I wrote the last update it was late last night and I went to bed immediately after posting it. Then I started thinking (. . . finally!). I was missing the obvious. My distributor body was just slightly out, probably a tooth or two and the adjustment range would't cover it. I forgot that the distributor hold-down clamp is also a friction fit around the body. If I loosen the clamp, I can rotate the distributor within it until it is in the correct position - remembering that it's only a few degrees out - then tighten it and make the final adjustments as in a normal tune-up. What I was forgetting is that the rotor to body/cap orientation is what matters, not the position of the distributor with respect to the block! As long as the spark goes to the right terminal in the cap at the right time, it doesn't matter which way the distributor is turned. Duh!

[Galwaylotus]

Update. I went back to basics and made a list:
Set engine to #1 firing position (pilled the plug and opened the oil fill cap). By checking three points I got it to the right spot: cam lobe toward the centre, piston near the top of its stroke, and timing mark and pulley aligned)

Took the clamp off the distributor and screwed it to the block - slightly loose to allow centering on the distributor.

Set the rotor pointing toward the "bottom" clip on the distributor body and installed it through the clamp and into the block. The rotor was now pointing toward approx 8 o'clock.

Tightened the clamp hold-down screw.

Connected static timing light and got points to just open. Tightened clamp around distributor body but not fully.

Connected jump leads to the battery and my inductive timing light to the leads. It was easier than trying to figure out where to connect the light!

Started engine and set timing to near the first mark - assumed to be at 12? BTDC. I used the throttle stop screw on the Weber to set the idle speed to 1500 rpm.

Tightened distributor clamp and checked timing again.

So the ignition parts have all been replaced and the car runs fine in the driveway but a half mile or so under load on the road it loses power and dies. Very frustrating!

[rgh0]

If the car will idle indefinitely at normal operating temperature but looses power and then dies with half a mile when driven I would suspect some fuel supply restriction.


cheers
Rohan

[paddy]

I've heard of a blocked fuel tank breather causing a similar problem. When it dies, remove the petrol cap and see if that makes any difference.

Paddy

[alaric]

Hi. Someone has to ask - did you replace the coil too? If that's got a short it may only show up when the coil gets hot. I've managed to get this problem by dropping a coil in the past. I know you said you replaced all the ignition parts so please be gentle - just asking in case...

Regards.

Sean.

[gjz30075]

Sean, post is two years old. I'm pretty sure Galway has his car running by now. To our new poster: The video isn't even close. What are you trying to accomplish?

Greg Z

[alaric]

Oh, so it is. Bother. Didn't spot that.

[Galwaylotus]

Apologies. I've been away for a few days and couldn't get to my e-mail. Yes, my S3 has been running well for quite some time now. As with many issues, being forced to pull things apart leads to a good learning experience. It seems others have answered your original question but if I can be of any help, please feel free to PM me.