Lotus Elan

Type 9 long shot

PostPost by: shynsy » Fri Jan 10, 2025 7:27 am

Hi Folks,
I am fitting a type 9 that has had its shifter position to fit into a +2. It's not a voigts modified box.
Anyhow it had has a longer V6 input shaft and therefore a spacer between the box and bellhousing. It is also has a Milton concentric clutch slave fitted.
My long shot is... does anyone have a similar set up and knows what spacers the slave needs to give the required the correct tolerance to the pressure plate fingers.

Tim
Current Cars: '72 Elan +2S130/5, '72 Triumph Stag 3.9L, '72 Spitifire Mk IV. Past Cars: '72 Triumph TR6 (supercharged), '70 MG Midget (K-Series + Type 9), '76 Triumph 2500TC, '72 Lotus Elan +2S130/4, '76 Triumph Spitfire 1500.
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Fri Jan 10, 2025 9:12 am

Tim
I tried this years ago and it wouldn't fit , rear mounting , has yours been removed?

John ;-)
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PostPost by: bitsobrits » Fri Jan 10, 2025 1:58 pm

shynsy wrote:Hi Folks,
My long shot is... does anyone have a similar set up and knows what spacers the slave needs to give the required the correct tolerance to the pressure plate fingers.
Tim


I've done a concentric cylinder installation (using a different gearbox). I would say there is no 'universal' spacer dimension as it will depend on the gearbox used, the thickness of the adaptor plate used, and the specific design of the concentric slave cylinder. So you need to measure the distance from the throwout bearing face to the operating interface (fingers) of the pressure plate and then fabricate a spacer (or spacers) that is that distance minus whatever the normal throw out bearing clearance should be (1-2mm?). Obviously it's nearly impossible to do this measurement with everything assembled, so one way is to install the bell housing and adapter plate and measure from the rear mounting face to the pressure plate, then measure from the gearbox to bell housing mounting face to the throwout bearing face (with the throwout bearing fully retracted, of course). Also obvious is that careful and thoughtful measurement is required here, so your old school ruler won't do.
Steve

Elan S1 1963-Bourne bodied
Elan S3 1967 FHC pre airflow

Formerly:
Elan S1 1964
Elan S3 1966 FHC pre airflow
Elan S3 1967 FHC airflow
Elan S4 1969 FHC
Europa S2 1970
Esprit S2 1979
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PostPost by: shynsy » Fri Jan 10, 2025 8:39 pm

OK. I kinda thought this as I also suspected that the clutch pressure plate would have significant influence. Luckily you can buy spacers. So will get measuring.
Tim
Current Cars: '72 Elan +2S130/5, '72 Triumph Stag 3.9L, '72 Spitifire Mk IV. Past Cars: '72 Triumph TR6 (supercharged), '70 MG Midget (K-Series + Type 9), '76 Triumph 2500TC, '72 Lotus Elan +2S130/4, '76 Triumph Spitfire 1500.
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PostPost by: berni29 » Fri Jan 10, 2025 10:51 pm

Hi

I went through this recently with my type 9 with concentric clutch. Mine also has had the lever relocated into the correct spot. I didn't have the longer input shaft on this box (but do on another) have you considered cutting it down to remove the need for a spacer on the bellhousing?

If the box is out of the car there is a way to measure for the concentric clutch spacer. I cannot remember what it is but the information is out there. I bought a 12mm spacer but it was too big and had it turned down to 7mm I think it was. You can get 7mm ones I think but it was no prob for me to have the work done. It does make a difference whether the clutch is self adjusting or not as if is not you will have to make sure you have enough travel to accommodate for clutch wear over time. I used a Mondeo mk1 clutch which was not, but mine is a Zetec engine. I did use one of those cheap inspection cameras to make sure I had clearance between the bearing (a Saab item) and the clutch cover forks and to see that the the mechanism behaved as expected. I also have a remote bleed for the clutch slave to make bleeding super easy.

By the way, does your type 9 have a spring on the lever? Mine does and it is far too strong. I have to use two hands to push the lever down to get into reverse. I'm looking to get a weaker spring and are seeking suggestions. The one one on there looks like a valve spring.

I might have written some of this up on this site. I cant remember. I do have videos of the clutch mechanism at work somewhere.

All the best

Berni
Zetec+ 2 under const, also 130S. And another 130S for complete restoration. Previously Racing green +2s with green tints. Yellow +2 and a couple of others, all missed. Great to be back 04/11/2021 although its all starting to get a bit out of control.
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PostPost by: shynsy » Sat Jan 11, 2025 8:30 am

Thanks folks.
I too use one of the cheap micro cameras (see attached image)
The cylinder came with a few spacers but it is still too short so have ordered a larger spacer from burton power. Hopefully by using different combos I can get it to fit.
Tim
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Current Cars: '72 Elan +2S130/5, '72 Triumph Stag 3.9L, '72 Spitifire Mk IV. Past Cars: '72 Triumph TR6 (supercharged), '70 MG Midget (K-Series + Type 9), '76 Triumph 2500TC, '72 Lotus Elan +2S130/4, '76 Triumph Spitfire 1500.
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PostPost by: shynsy » Sun Jan 12, 2025 8:02 pm

OK fitted a 25mm spacer and it gives me about 3mm gap between the thrust bearing and the tips of the clutch cover fingers.
I think that's enough.
Tim
Current Cars: '72 Elan +2S130/5, '72 Triumph Stag 3.9L, '72 Spitifire Mk IV. Past Cars: '72 Triumph TR6 (supercharged), '70 MG Midget (K-Series + Type 9), '76 Triumph 2500TC, '72 Lotus Elan +2S130/4, '76 Triumph Spitfire 1500.
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PostPost by: berni29 » Sun Jan 12, 2025 11:11 pm

Hi

That sounds like it will be fine! What are you doing about a propshaft?

All the best

Berni
Zetec+ 2 under const, also 130S. And another 130S for complete restoration. Previously Racing green +2s with green tints. Yellow +2 and a couple of others, all missed. Great to be back 04/11/2021 although its all starting to get a bit out of control.
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