clutch pedal soft when engine is started
45 posts
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More trouble now, pumping the pedal there was no pressure because the MC is leaking fluid down into the footwell.
Why has that suddenly happened, the new rebuild kit was fine earlier today.
I hope that I can just only remove the MC, I have a access hole in the peddle box top
Thanks for all your suggestions John
Why has that suddenly happened, the new rebuild kit was fine earlier today.
I hope that I can just only remove the MC, I have a access hole in the peddle box top
Thanks for all your suggestions John
- checkrail
- Third Gear
- Posts: 272
- Joined: 17 Oct 2018
- Location: lincoln
The weeks go by and I still can only select the gears when the engine is not running.
Just to recap: new master and slave cylinders and speedbleeder, the pedal has acceptable pressure but if I pump away at least 20 odd times it will become firmer.. I've wedged it down overnight several times but no difference, the cylinders are the correct bore size
I fitted a new clutch plate but the rest of the mechanism is original, so it's back to the same old question ' why does starting the engine affect the hydrauilics'
I'm afraid now at my age depression is starting to set in regards John
Just to recap: new master and slave cylinders and speedbleeder, the pedal has acceptable pressure but if I pump away at least 20 odd times it will become firmer.. I've wedged it down overnight several times but no difference, the cylinders are the correct bore size
I fitted a new clutch plate but the rest of the mechanism is original, so it's back to the same old question ' why does starting the engine affect the hydrauilics'
I'm afraid now at my age depression is starting to set in regards John
- checkrail
- Third Gear
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- Joined: 17 Oct 2018
- Location: lincoln
Is the action of the engine vacuum acting on the servo a possibility, Try bleeding the system from the servo outlet port or remove it and check it is not full of brake fluid.
- reds4se
- First Gear
- Posts: 34
- Joined: 31 Jan 2009
- Location: Leeds
The first thing that comes to my mind is that the transmission input shaft is not able to spin freely, specfically it is binding at the crankshaft end, which would prevent gear selection with the engine running regardless of whether the clutch was disengaged.
But the whole soft pedal thing is odd. Crankshaft thrust washers having excessive play? It's baffling.
But the whole soft pedal thing is odd. Crankshaft thrust washers having excessive play? It's baffling.
- wdb
- First Gear
- Posts: 16
- Joined: 25 Jul 2024
- Location: Eastern Pennsylvania USA
It is not the engine affecting the hydraulics it is the clutch not disengaging at any time. With the engine stopped you can select gears with the clutch not disengaging but with it running you cant that is normal. The question is why is the clutch not disengaging and from your descriptions it appears an issue with fully bleeding the system or adjusting the lever arm or some issue with the setup and reinstallaton of various clutch components when the work was done.
The starting point is how much iss the lever arm moving when the clutch pedal is depressed ?
regards
Rohan
PS Your steadfast refusal to obtain a camera and post photos makes all of this diagnosis much much harder with your various problems
The starting point is how much iss the lever arm moving when the clutch pedal is depressed ?
regards
Rohan
PS Your steadfast refusal to obtain a camera and post photos makes all of this diagnosis much much harder with your various problems
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rgh0 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Location: Melbourne, Australia
John,
Are you sure you fitted the new clutch disc the right way round ? The hub is offset and they are usually marked with "FLYWHEEL SIDE" or "ENGINE SIDE" I don't think that is mentioned in the Workshop Manual.
Are you sure you fitted the new clutch disc the right way round ? The hub is offset and they are usually marked with "FLYWHEEL SIDE" or "ENGINE SIDE" I don't think that is mentioned in the Workshop Manual.
Roger
S4 DHC
S4 DHC
- oldelanman
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1984
- Joined: 02 Jan 2008
- Location: Dorset UK
Thanks for all your replies, but please note that all I have done is change the clutch plate, the rest of the mechanism has not been interfered with. The clutch was working fine the only reason I changed the plate was because the rear core plug had to be changed which gave me the chance to check the plate.
John
John
- checkrail
- Third Gear
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- Joined: 17 Oct 2018
- Location: lincoln
Please just answer the simple question I have asked - how much does the clutch lever at the slave cylinder pushrod move when you depress the clutch pedal
cheers
Rohan
cheers
Rohan
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rgh0 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 22 Sep 2003
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
i've had computer problems all day Rowan, however, the measurement from the circlip to the clutch fork is 80mm with a couple of mm free play. This setting gives easy gear selection with the engine off and the pushrod.
fully home in the cylinder and the circlip in its correct slot
Thanks John
fully home in the cylinder and the circlip in its correct slot
Thanks John
- checkrail
- Third Gear
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- Joined: 17 Oct 2018
- Location: lincoln
For less than £10 you can buy from Ebay an Endoscope/Boroscope that plugs into your mobile phone. They're a bit of a pain to set up, but they are useful for seeing into hidden areas on the car. For your clutch problem you would pull back the gaiter and insert it into the bell housing. Wriggle it around a bit while someone depresses the pedal and you can see (and record) what's happening inside the bellhousing.
I've just used mine tonight to check the connections on the fuel sender (gauge not working) at the back of the fuel tank.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/156019738002 ... 6596579227
I've just used mine tonight to check the connections on the fuel sender (gauge not working) at the back of the fuel tank.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/156019738002 ... 6596579227
Mike
1967 S3 FHC
1968 S4 FHC
1967 S3 FHC
1968 S4 FHC
- smo17003
- Third Gear
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- Location: Oxford, England
checkrail wrote:i've had computer problems all day Rowan, however, the measurement from the circlip to the clutch fork is 80mm with a couple of mm free play. This setting gives easy gear selection with the engine off and the pushrod.
fully home in the cylinder and the circlip in its correct slot
Thanks John
Sorry to be blunt, but forget about when the engine is off! As Rowan says, when the engine is off you can change gear without the clutch, so it proves nothing.
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draenog - Third Gear
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I presume the distance of 80mm is with the pedal not pushed. What is the distance when the pedal is pushed? it should increase by around 20 mm.
cheers
Rohan
cheers
Rohan
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rgh0 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Yes those are the approx measurements
John
John
- checkrail
- Third Gear
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Confused me, 20mm on slave?
As log as you’ve got 20mm, then there is something else. Someone mentioned clutch faces correct way.
How did you measure 20mm?
As log as you’ve got 20mm, then there is something else. Someone mentioned clutch faces correct way.
How did you measure 20mm?
Born, and brought home from the hospital (no seat belt (wtf)) in a baby!
Find out where the limits are, and start from there
Love your Mother
Earth
Find out where the limits are, and start from there
Love your Mother
Earth
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h20hamelan - Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Location: RACECAR spelled backward, is——RACECAR! Kayak, Kayak. The Faster You Drive...The Slower You Age
I now have approx 100mm total when the pedal is held down, I'm working single handed so wedged the pedal down
John
John
- checkrail
- Third Gear
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