Gearbox tips

PostPost by: joe7 » Fri Dec 16, 2022 8:38 pm

A few tips to make your GB project a bit easier.
Before dismantling the mainshaft check the end float of the gears. If not in spec you will need to look further.
Reinstall the laygear and check the end float. Spec should be .008 to .020. I measure the end float at the "small" end. Sometimes the "big" end maybe worn and you may not get an accurate measurement. Measure the thrust washers. Spec should be .061 to .063. That should let you know if you need to replace the thrust washers and/or the laygear.
Check the gear box bolt threads. Often the lower 2, where the exhaust bracket attaches, maybe stripped.
So on to assembly.
To keep the thrust washers in place we use corks (yep the wine type) that hold the "tangs" in place, a small dab of white grease on the rear, extra stick, and a light wipe of oil on the face to ease sliding in the LG.
Ready to install the MS. WSM states "place the gasket over the rear face of the gearbox". Problem is the gasket will never line up to allow the MS to slide in without cutting through the gasket material. The more you're off the worst it gets.That's because the gasket is a slight press fit over the rear bearing carrier. Position the gasket as it would go on the rear face of the gearbox and slide it down the MS and press it around and into the groove in the front of the rear bearing carrier. So now you know what that's for! A light wipe of oil on the gearbox opening and the rear carrier and slide it in. No drama and you won't have to play the 4th gear syncro ring game! Once the MS is in you will need to keep some "pressure" on it to keep in the gearbox as it has a tendency to slip out as you continue assembling the gearbox.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sat Dec 17, 2022 6:35 am

I made a dummy Layshaft from Tube.
This means when lifting with Mainshaft in place you can use centalising tapered plugs from outside.
Alan
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