Lotus Elan

Aperture size for gear lever

PostPost by: rgh0 » Thu Nov 26, 2020 11:04 am

This is what I made for tightening the Lotus 5 speed change cap on my Plus 2 when it came loose. The 5 speed cap is smaller in diameter and across the flats but a similar one would work on the 4 speed cap, just never had a 4 speed cap come loose or need to remove when in the car.

cap tool.jpg and


cheers
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PostPost by: fatboyoz » Thu Nov 26, 2020 11:50 am

Hi low flyer,
A useful mod in regards to securing the plate, is to install rivnuts. Aluminium rivnuts with a washer underneath to spread the load, means no more stripped out fibreglass holes when using self tappers.
Cheers,
Colin.






quote="lowflyer"]Not a lot of progress tonight but I did take a couple of pictures of the plate in situ with the lever removed, in case that was useful to anyone.
plate.jpg

I also marked out the hole perimeter based on the plate. Judging by the view when the inspection lamp was shining under the car, that should give me enough space to unscrew the cap (and be a lot neater).
cutout.jpg
[/quote]
'68 S4 DHC
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PostPost by: lowflyer » Thu Nov 26, 2020 1:45 pm

A useful mod in regards to securing the plate, is to install rivnuts.

Thanks Colin, I was thinking about doing that as the fibreglass is pretty thin on the tunnel top.

Thanks Henry that's an elegant solution, though I didn't have any pipe of the right size spare so I massively over-engineered a solution :)
hole.jpg and
A bit more progress

Greg's suggestion about pushing down the seat cup led me to quickly 3D print a sleeve that slides over the ball end shaft. When you tighten the sleeve bolt it pushes down the cup. Removing the seat with a drift was super easy after that through the enlarged (and neater) aperture.
Last edited by lowflyer on Thu Nov 26, 2020 6:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPost by: Frogelan » Thu Nov 26, 2020 2:27 pm

Thanks to all for the useful ideas shown here. I had been looking for these dimensions for some time now!

The idea of using rivnuts (Colin) and silicone sealant between the gaitor and the steel (Roger - Oldelanman
post from 2013) make sense. Thank you gentlemen.

I have in mind using 1mm Tufnol sheet (phenolic paper) instead of steel in addition as this may also reduce possible sizzling and making a rubber gasket held on with silicon sealant.

Andrew
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PostPost by: lowflyer » Thu Nov 26, 2020 5:49 pm

On reflection, though I like the idea of captive fasteners to hold the plate down, I think I'll use well nuts (aka fairing nuts) as these would be more resilient than rivnuts and introduce less stress on the glassfibre. The rubber may stop any vibration too. If only I could remember where I put mine...

My massively over engineered removal tool proved to be effective - I'd have done something more elegant if I had the time. Though it looks like I'll have to print another for the aluminium replacement that doesn't have the castellations.
printtool.jpg and

Now all I have to do is wait for the spares to arrive.

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PostPost by: SENC » Thu Nov 26, 2020 5:58 pm

Fancy indeed! Crazy what is possible now with 3d printing. I'm afraid the technology and ability to use it are above my head (or below my age), but very cool!
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