Re: Clutch master and slave cylinder conundrum
Posted: Sun Jun 09, 2019 8:07 pm
Hi All,
Here is a follow-up to my problem of whether my rebuild of the clutch master cylinder or the new slave cylinder was the culprit for having no clutch. It turns out that it was both. I replaced the master cylinder with a new one from RDent. It felt much better than the rebuilt one, more back pressure. But, still no clutch. The solution was to bleed the system using a pressure pump, lent me by Tony Vacarro, and to make sure the bleed valve on the slave cylinder was at the top. Once that was accomplished, everything worked perfectly.
However, getting there was not easy, once you put the slave cylinder into place, you can not turn it to get the bleed valve on top. You have to back it out about 3/8 of an inch so that it clears a tab on the bell housing that allows you to turn it so the bleed valve is at 12 degrees top dead center.
I would recommend that if you are replacing the slave cylinder, you bleed it first before pushing it home for its final position. I would also recommend using anti-seize on the slave cylinder body to prevent it from "becoming too attached" to the bell housing mount if you plan on rebuilding the one you have rather than buying a new one the next time it wears out.
Thank you all for your suggestions,
I think that when I am finished rebuilding my Elan, I will have done it 3 times.
Best to everyone,
Jay S.
Here is a follow-up to my problem of whether my rebuild of the clutch master cylinder or the new slave cylinder was the culprit for having no clutch. It turns out that it was both. I replaced the master cylinder with a new one from RDent. It felt much better than the rebuilt one, more back pressure. But, still no clutch. The solution was to bleed the system using a pressure pump, lent me by Tony Vacarro, and to make sure the bleed valve on the slave cylinder was at the top. Once that was accomplished, everything worked perfectly.
However, getting there was not easy, once you put the slave cylinder into place, you can not turn it to get the bleed valve on top. You have to back it out about 3/8 of an inch so that it clears a tab on the bell housing that allows you to turn it so the bleed valve is at 12 degrees top dead center.
I would recommend that if you are replacing the slave cylinder, you bleed it first before pushing it home for its final position. I would also recommend using anti-seize on the slave cylinder body to prevent it from "becoming too attached" to the bell housing mount if you plan on rebuilding the one you have rather than buying a new one the next time it wears out.
Thank you all for your suggestions,
I think that when I am finished rebuilding my Elan, I will have done it 3 times.
Best to everyone,
Jay S.