Sue Miller CV boot replacement - advice please

[RichardS]

I need to replace both boots on one side. I did replace one on the other side a while ago but can?t quite remember how I did it!

If I remove the 3 socket head bolts that the boot attaches through at the diff end is it then possible to free the inboard end of the drive driveshaft enough to change the boot? Or do you need to disconnect the outer A frame to swing the rear suspension out? Finally can you slide the outboard boot down the shaft from the diff end or does the whole driveshaft need removing?

I do remember it was easier to do with the driveshaft fairly horizontal, rather than at droop.

Thanks

Richard

[Hawksfield]

Hi Richard
If you need to change both boots on one shaft it would be best to remove the shaft complete as the cv has to be removed to pull off the boot after removing the circlip.
The A frames do not need to be removed
If the boots are split there is good chance that there is an ingress of grit and water, re greasing the joints is easier on the bench
Good luck

[Grizzly]

As above......

We've just had to fit a set of boots on a pair of kelvedon cv shafts (i believe they are very similar to Sue Millers), it's possible to do in situe but for what it takes to remove and refit the whole shaft it's easier to do the job on a bench.

We also noticed the shafts had been weeping between the CV and adapter plate pre boot replacement so we put a small bead of RTV between during assembly, the Allen bolts also needed to be re-torqued after a few miles.

I suggest you get the best quality boots available, cheap ones don't stand up well to the Shafts articulation and don't overfill the CV joint.

[JonB]

As an aside, how long should we expect the original boots to last?

[rgh0]

My original VW CV boots on my Elan and Plus 2 have lasted 30 years and were second hand when I got them in the late 80's. The life of the current equivalent are probably the same but you need to be careful of the source of what you buy

cheers
Rohan

[JonB]

Well, they came from Sue Miller with the shafts so I have high hopes!

[RichardS]

Thanks for replies, I am going to tackle the job tomorrow.

These 2 boots have been on for 10 years but haven?t done more than 1000 miles. I checked with Sue and she said I do not need the limited shock absorbers with these particular CVs

Richard

[Grizzly]

The Boot's we changed were kelvedon/Shaftec (i am told they use the same parts and design as Sue Miller's they even supply her shafts in recent years since stopping manufacture her self) the boot's on the 2 seater we replaced were no more than 6 years old with no more than 5000 miles from new.

Personally i think a car thats used will get more life from the Boots as opposed to one thats parked up in full extension for periods of time, on top of that i would expect a +2 CV shaft boot to last longer than the 2 seater due to the droop angle difference.

Easy way of checking to see if you need the droop reducing, with it all assembled jack up the rear of the car and spin the wheel by hand, if you feel it binding the Cv or locking up you need to reduce the droop but if it turns freely your fine (assuming the Boot can handle the extra angle) i was under the impression only Col Croucher's Cv conversion for the 2 seater was able to run stock droop?

[EPA]

When my CV boots split I purchased a set from Kelvedon as used on the replacement shafts that they supply. The design near where the boots clamp to the shaft is different to the original Sue Miller items and I am hoping that they last for much longer than the few thousand miles that they did. I took the shafts off to replace the boots
Ed

[Grizzly]

Well, they came from Sue Miller with the shafts so I have high hopes!

Did you get them recently? i know the quality dropped off towards the end of assembling at Mick Miller's (why she stopped making them up a few years ago) she then passed the design on to Kelvedon who tweaked it slightly and had Shaftec assemble them so i'm told...... I didn't know she had started selling them again but it would make sense if the flaws had been ironed out.

[elansprint71]

Richard,
Please could you take some photos of the job in progress and post them here?

Thanks.

[RichardS]

Richard,
Please could you take some photos of the job in progress and post them here?

Thanks.

Hi Pete

I have spent the afternoon getting the driveshaft out and it?s now on the bench. I will get some photos as I get along.

Richard

PS has anyone tips for getting the new boot over the shoulder on the driveshaft? Plenty of grease and effort but no success yet. Wonder if the Kelvedon ones are easier to fit as I am tempted to get a pair if they are likely to last longer as I don?t want to the job again for a few years!

[SENC]

Here are pictures of what I came up with to get the boot on my steering rack, perhaps it will spark an idea for you. Just a piece of a plastic milk jug cut and rolled into a funnel held in place by string that, when pulled throogh the boot allowed it to slip into a tighter funnel.

[Grizzly]

With the CV removed from the shaft and using the Kelvedon boot's we just wrapped black tape round the splines with a bit overhanging, light layer of grease and it went over fairly easy.

One thing you will notice with the Shaftec/Kelvedon boot's is they are quite soft and they can be man handled (as long as you don't have any sharp edges exposed)

I would suggest replacing both boots at the same time, you can swap both boots with one cv removed so for what they cost it seems rude not to, saves revisiting.......