Clutch Release Bearing

[Europatc]

I had the same problem, the new bearing lasted less than a year. Ill check to see who I bought it off. Some of these parts are pitiful

[daverubberduck]

To be honest, I wasn't going to try and remove the studs with the manifold in place. I recently changed my manifold for a stainless one and I found that I was able to remove the old manifold without removing the studs. What I found very difficult was fitting the new one over the studs. Also I found that some of the studs were different in that they had the same thread the whole length. This means there are 2 different nut sizes on the manifold. So my plan was to remove the manifold and then remove the studs, not caring if I damage the threads. I already have a new set. At the end I will insert the new studs with the manifold in place. That's the plan anyway.

Haven't decided yet where I'm going to get a new bearing from. I may talk to a few people e.g. Paul Matty, Sue Miller etc and see what they say.
Dave

[2cams70]

If it's a common problem that people are having issues with reproduced release bearings it might be worth doing a dissection of the failed ones in an effort to determine what is causing it.

[alan.barker]

The nuts should be 1/2" AF but some replacement Brass Nuts have AF in mm. Made from brass Metric hexagonal bar I suggest copper slip on threads before screwing into the Head. I have found some Manifolds need adjusting so they line up with the studs without trying to spring the Manifold into place. Check the Pitch between n?1 and n?3 + n?2 and n?4. Check with Rule before putting Engine back in place and adjust Manifold to suit.
Once Engine is in place it's very difficult
Alan

[types26/36]

The nuts should be 1/2" AF Alan

Surely you mean 5/16unf ? the studs are 5/16unc into the head with a 5/16 unf brass nut.

[alan.barker]

Sorry but i think you have miss read what i wrote
AF = across the flats. The threads are unified with one end UNC and the other UNF.

Alan

The reference to the AF is for the Spanner size

[rgh0]

If it's a common problem that people are having issues with reproduced release bearings it might be worth doing a dissection of the failed ones in an effort to determine what is causing it.

The fundamental cause is that they have no manufactures name or part number etched or stamped on them No name bearings are guaranteed to be of low quality with poor lubrication and sealing, poor quality material and heat treatment and poor dimensional accuracy all of which will contribute to a variable but usually short life.

Anyone in the world who makes decent bearings puts their name on them and you know who they are - e.g. Timken, SKF, NSK ( now owners of RHP) AST etc

cheers
Rohan

[types26/36]

"The nuts should be 1/2" AF"

No I didnt misread it, you said 1/2" nuts with no mention of the spanner size, although I understood it, it is very confusing for someone who is not used to working with spanners/nuts/threads etc.

[daverubberduck]

Hi Alan
How do adjust the manifold? It's a fixed thing.
Dave

[alan.barker]

Sometimes i have found that maybe n?1 and n?3 could be too close so i have used a small scissor jack to push them apart. Or too far apart and used a Clamp bring them closer. Or maybe same problem with n?2 and n?4.
I just try to make them as close as posible so you don't need to struggle when sliding the Manifold onto the Exhaust Studs and stressing them.
If they are too far apart and need bringing closer it's easier. I don't use a Hammer or anything like that.
Alan

[daverubberduck]

Thanks Alan, that's good to know.

[daverubberduck]

I contacted SJ Sportscars. They said their bearings have no markings on them but they are made for them by a UK company. They also say they have sold 100s and had no complaints, so I will get one from them and we will see.

[Chancer]

I contacted SJ Sportscars. They said their bearings have no markings on them but they are made for them by a UK company.

............. who buy them from China.

I have lurked on this forum several years whilst biding my time before I will have the freedom to restore my Elan.

The love affair is undiminished but after reading so many tales on here like the above I really have no desire now to restore the vehicle, untrue, I would love to restore it for the pleasure and the equal pleasure of driving it thereafter for the rest of my days, but I am not prepared to spend the rest of my life replacing sub-standard components nor to sell on a well restored but unreliable vehicle.

After cherishing and protecting it well for 2 decades it will probably now have to go to new owner to restore, one who will be prepared to put up with the unreliability, it will break my heart.

[daverubberduck]

SJS have jut corrected themselves, the supplier is in the UK, they cannot guarantee that they are made in the UK.

This is not the first time I've been affected by Chinese crap, though it is the first time it has affected my car. For example, I have about half a dozen security lights in my garage which were bought in the UK but almost certainly came from China. They all packed up soon after installation.

I have been through a lot of pain and expense with my car, but I thought it was finally finished. Now this happens. I have to say that it is giving me doubts as well.
Dave

[Bigbaldybloke]

There have been several discussions about going to a concentric clutch slave cylinder and bearing, typically of Saab origin I believe. Is this mod readily available and is it likely to be more reliable?