Lotus Elan

Getting a clutch together

PostPost by: JonB » Thu Jul 05, 2018 3:44 pm

So.. in my quest to lighten my clutch I have acquired a NOS cover - the bit with the springs - and I will be looking for a new plate (errm... the bit with the brake pad material on it). However, I know that for the Plus 2 130 there was a Lotus bulletin that said one side of the plate's (errrm collet? spigot? metal thing the output shaft goes through) needs to be machined back slightly. As I have no lathe I would like to ask where's the best place to get one ready machined?
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Thu Jul 05, 2018 4:23 pm

Find a piece of bar the right diameter , pop it in the vice and sit the friction plate on it , then get your grinder to work , the bar should not protrude through the centre , should be below the centre by the amount you want to remove...as you're grinding , the friction plate will rotate and grind away the centre...

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PostPost by: JonB » Thu Jul 05, 2018 6:47 pm

I've read that some people have done this, John, but I think it needs to be square, no?

There is little chance of managing that with an angle grinder.
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Thu Jul 05, 2018 7:27 pm

No need to be perfectly square,just making a clearance....I know,I was that man , have the T-shirt etc.etc...

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PostPost by: vincereynard » Thu Jul 05, 2018 7:50 pm

I bought the whole assembly (from Mrs Miller probably) Driven + pressure + release and it did not need any machining.

Maybe that was then and now it is not necessary?

You should also have a good look at the release support tube as it has a habit of coming loose and rattling about. The later ones (or off an Elitye S1 were staked into position.
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PostPost by: JonB » Thu Jul 05, 2018 8:15 pm

Well, the cover plate is NOS, unused. Not Borg & Beck mind. I'll be swapping it in when I take the engine out to do a bunch of jobs:
  • Oil leaks
  • thermostat cover bolt
  • Steering column bushes
  • New dashboard
  • heater box restoration
  • fix that annoying wind noise at 70 mph
  • find out why the damned thing rattles all the time
  • etc
  • etc

That joyous day (engine out) is delayed until September...
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PostPost by: vincereynard » Thu Jul 05, 2018 9:48 pm

JonB wrote:[*]find out why the damned thing rattles all the time



If it's an intermittent rattle from the gearbox area that could very well be a loose release support tube.
It's only pushed into the front of the gearbox front cover more in hope than conviction.

Considering the state of my original clutch -
4 speed pressure / worn driven / wrong release (for a 4 speed) / loose support tube / wrong slave / missing spring. It's rather surprising it worked as well as it did!

Taking the engine out, and therefore having no forward motion, seems a drastic way to fix wind noise.
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PostPost by: JonB » Fri Jul 06, 2018 7:16 am

vincereynard wrote:Taking the engine out, and therefore having no forward motion, seems a drastic way to fix wind noise.


LOL!

It's because the wind noise is coming from behind the dash. Either windscreen or heater box seal. The sequence of jobs follows naturally on from the engine/box removal; dashboard primarily because of the ambient temperature gauge capillary tube, which I think will be easier to get out with the engine removed. Heater box because, well I'm in there, right? Steering column bushes because the dash replacement entails taking the loom apart, and you need that to remove the steering column. Etc, etc - because you know what this is going to be like.... off the road for a year I expect!

Regarding the rattle - not sure what the release support tube is and cannot see it on the parts diagram. Could you explain please? The rattling is coming from the front and back of the car, and probably underneath too. Multiple causes I expect.. So when I go over one of the many potholes / bumps in my local roads, I wince every time. I would enjoy driving this car so much if it was not so rattly / squeaky!
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PostPost by: vincereynard » Fri Jul 06, 2018 9:15 am

Release bearing support tube.

230-jul.-06-09.46.jpg and
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PostPost by: JonB » Fri Jul 06, 2018 9:35 am

Oh right thanks, gotcha.

That rattle would be unaffected by going over bumps I think - if noisy I'd expect the using clutch to affect it?

The rattles I am talking about are the result of bumpy roads, so I suspect suspension and / or other things in the car that aren't bolted down properly.
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PostPost by: pauljones » Fri Jul 06, 2018 10:00 am

Jon

A louder exhaust will get rid of the wind noise or atleast suppress it.

Paul
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PostPost by: JonB » Fri Jul 06, 2018 10:15 am

I have a loud exhaust!

But.. tut tut tut, you ought to know better than that... ;)
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PostPost by: pauljones » Fri Jul 06, 2018 10:56 am

I know. I should. I blame the sun and too much time away from intelligent humans.

I must admit, id look into one of those concentric clutch thingys. Theres some info on here. Seems a better way of doing things and eliminates pretty much all moving parts.

There, a sensible answer.

Hope your keeping well,
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PostPost by: JonB » Fri Jul 06, 2018 1:14 pm

Sure am. Just picked up a new bike today.. so I'm happy.. :D
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PostPost by: JonB » Fri Jul 06, 2018 2:15 pm

Regarding the concentric clutch cylinder approach, I've thought about it but I don't know how to get the adapter / mount plate made. Can anyone advise?

Also, which slave cylinder? There seem to be many types for the Saab. I'd be looking for one with a remote bleed nipple.

Finally would a new master cylinder be required?
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