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Re: Need some help reviewing a T9 installation

PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2018 2:01 pm
by worzel
Hi

Worzel here.

Not one of mine I'm afraid. Can't see too much from the pictures.

Can give you some clues- the bellhousing (if alloy) could be a "Rocket to BDA" item- an exact copy in alloy of the 4 speed bellhousing unit but with a different rear fixing pattern or- it might be a modified Ford RS2000 unit that has been altered to take the std external clutch slave cylinder (see if the mounting "ring" for the slave cylinder has been welded on)

Which ratios- short of removing the box not particularly easy to tell. try the following if you really want to know-

Jack up the rear- one wheel off the ground, support adequately (!).
stick into first
underneath the car access the bottom of the flywheel by removing the bottom plate that fits on the bottom of the bellhousing (about 4 bolts if I remember correctly.
mark the flywheel with white paint dot
get willing helper to mark the wheel that's off the ground
engage 1st gear
get willing helper to turn the rear wheel noting when one full revolution occurs
under the car see how far the mark on the flywheel has moved- this is the tricky bit since you can't see all of the flywheel- by some magical means you are looking to see if the flywheel has rotated either 3.3 or 3.6 times.

Alternatively-

Jack up rear- one wheel off the ground
Mark the wheel
Engage 1st gear
Mark the crank pulley
Start turning the engine
Get helper to let you know when rear wheel has done 360 degrees
Note where mark on crank pulley is- if crank pulley has rotated 3.3 times you have a box out of a 2.8 capri or similar, if rotated 3.65 times it's the std box out of a 1.6 engined Ford (the more commonly used box).

Does this help? As I said I can't see too much detail in the pics but it looks a bit of a "home special". If it were mine I'd definitely check the security of the support mountsand the bellhousing to block mounts plus the 2 starter bolts as alloy threads don't take too kindly to over-tightening.

regards


John

Re: Need some help reviewing a T9 installation

PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2018 10:48 pm
by tjb0274
Hi John -

That's very helpful - thankyou :-)

I'll have to double check on the weekend, but I think the slave cylinder ring looked like part of the bell housing casting.

The slave cylinder is missing - do you happen to know what type of cylinder it should be? Is it the same as the cylinder for the standard 4 speed box?


Regards,


Tim

Re: Need some help reviewing a T9 installation

PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2018 8:40 am
by worzel
Hi

If it's a Rocket to BDA item you use the std slave cylinder. That bellhousing, if a R to BDA is pretty rare nowadays and pricey!

One thing to look out for if it is one of these is clutch operation.
Why- well dimensionally this bellhousing differs in length from the 4 speed cast iron original and this affects the throw of the clutch fork.
Bit of a fiddle I know but you're advised if fitting one of these to assemble the box, clutch and engine off the car and rig up a temp hydraulic circuit then test to see if you can disengage the clutch. sometimes the clutch pivot pin inside the bellhousing needs to have its height altered a fraction to suit.

Regards


John

Re: Need some help reviewing a T9 installation

PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2018 10:28 am
by tjb0274
Thanks John - again, very useful info!

I'll definitely make sure to test the clutch.

Re: Need some help reviewing a T9 installation

PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2018 11:03 am
by tjb0274
Looks like I was wrong about the slave cylinder ring - I just dug through my collection of pics of the car and found this one. I think that looks like a weld line between the ring and the bellhousing.

img_20180602_144612.jpg and

Re: Need some help reviewing a T9 installation

PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2018 4:42 pm
by worzel
Hi

The bellhousing is probably the RS2000 unit- used because significantly cheaper. No problem with that- it'll work just as well as the other Rocket one- as long as the welding is good std.

If you're dismantling things I'd get thread inserts fitted into the two that hold the starter- they're definitely needed even if the threads look ok.

Regards


John