Lotus Elan and Lotus Elan Plus 2 Forums

I know you're not doing the seals but I came across this photo of home made spider puller.

http://redirect.viglink.com/?format=go& ... .jpg%22%3E

Thanks Mark. Just what I should be making, although I suspect the real issue is I don't have a suitable sliding weight.

Just a thought - could an engine hoist be used to pull the bearing out with a suitable cross brace under it?

Yes but impact reduces the force required very considerably.
I expect that a couple of good smart smacks are all it takes with the right kit.
But you're not doing the seals!

(Duplicate post deleted)

No indeed. So I filled the diff with new oil and thought about how best to get it into position. After all, it is quite heavy and I'm lying on my back to do it. Tricky.

In the end I used a piece of ply to make a slide up which the diff could be manhandled. I laid the plywood on the nearside wishbone and used a webbing strap to maintain position as I hoisted it up the slide.



When I'd got the diff to the top, I put the jack under the wishbone to keep it in place.



Then it was a matter of rolling under the diff and using both hands to lift it roughly into position. I fitted the brace bar at this point, put the D shaped washers on top, then inserted the bolts with a little manipulation. Then used wooden wedges to keep the diff in place. After that, got into the car and fitted the washers and top nuts (finger tight), then used a 14mm spanner wedged against the fuel tank strap to hold each nut in place. Out of the car, back underneath, torque the nuts up tightly, hey presto.

Next up, the U/J bolts. I gave these a clean, along with their nuts. One is a setscrew! Back under the car, lined up the marks on the diff and propshaft flanges and fitted the bolts, with the nuts finger tight. Then applied threadlock to the exposed threads and torqued the nuts up as hard as possible.

Bolted the stabiliser bars to the chassis. Looks like the bushes will need replacing after all - there is a crack in one - but this can be done without removing the diff.

Back to the bench and I found out that one of my doughnut bolts has lost its thread. I couldn't get the nut off as it was turning but not unwinding. Persevered and it came off, but the bolt and nut are both done for. I had a closer look at the spare doughnuts. They don't all look good to me. Hmm, I think the Universe is trying to say something to me, and it appears to be "fit CV joints".

About that time I gave up. Very cold / damp in my garage, and besides, it's time for lunch. At least the diff is back in, though!

Be careful to check that the different special washers on the Torque Rods to the Diff lower ears are correct.
Also the Torque Rods to Chassis have the special cone shaped nuts to stop moment + half locknuts.
Alan

Fortunately, I didn't remove the torque rods from the diff, wasn't necessary, and I noticed the bolt head shape. Nuts go on the inside of the Spyder chassis.

I do seem to have "inherited" a nut from somewhere, though. It looks like one of the half height locknuts from the front of the chassis. I certainly do not recall taking it off the rear end. Or the front, for that matter.

To get the diff out of my 2-seater, I clamp the nut in the boot with a mole wrench then take the bolt out from underneath using a socket set with both extension bars in series and maybe the universal joint that is part of my socket set.


I presume this is also possible on a plus 2

~
If a previous owner had put the a-frame bolts to chassis in with the heads to the outside you will not be able to get them out to remove the a-frame as the bolts will foul on the body. If so you will have to jack up the rear as high as possible to allow the a-frame to droop as far as possible and get the diff out over the top of the a-frame.

Yes, but no need for a mole grip (probably wouldn't fit anyway). Just a ring spanner braced against the fuel tank strap. (On the Plus 2 the fuel tank is above the diff.) Plus socket extensions of course.

Turned out to be much easier than I thought. Lucky!

Ring spanners fall off, mole wrench doesn't.

Not on a Plus 2. The soundproofing mat keeps it in place.

Naturally, YMMV. But this worked well for me.

A productive day - good to hear

Any tips on removing the old seal, mine seems quite well seated?

Last but one post on first page of this thread suggests spearing with screwdriver and levering out which is fairly standard procedure.
Or drill and screw in self tappers to lever from sides.

MarkDa wrote:Last but one post on first page of this thread suggests sparring with screwdriver and leering out which is fairly standard procedure.
Or drill and screw in self tappers to lever from sides.

Thanks, Mark, I think I was just being a little too delicate. Out now!




JonB - my diff oil didnt look quite as good as yours!


All - was the red case with yellow side stripes typical?