Lotus Elan

Bang/clonk noise, followed by no drive

PostPost by: rgh0 » Mon Jan 15, 2018 8:44 am

To split the case you need to remove the other drive shaft. It will probably be twisted also. The spline will have failed where it exits the diff. Once the other shaft is out you can drive out the broken bit from the other side without actually splitting the case but having got to this point worth splitting the case to remove any metal particles.

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PostPost by: Rich135 » Mon Jan 15, 2018 9:10 am

Thanks Rohan. I did wonder if I could drive it out from the other side. The other side bearing looks much better so the output shaft has possibly been replaced at some point but I will take it out to check and help with removing the other broken shaft.

I just worrying about splitting the whole thing, as I may not be technically competent to put it back together! Can I flush out any swarf using gunk engine cleaner or similar?

Many thanks

Rich
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Mon Jan 15, 2018 9:32 am

There is no technical issues splitting the case as the differential gears are all held in place by the nose section. Once split I would wash the nose and Lotus alloy sections with a solvent and blow dry. i would then spray with gear oil and drain this off to ensure all solvent traces are removed and everything is coated in gear oil .

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PostPost by: Rich135 » Mon Jan 15, 2018 9:38 am

Thanks so much Rohan, that gives me the confidence to tackle this. Hopefully I will have some time in the shed tonight!

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PostPost by: billwill » Mon Jan 15, 2018 12:05 pm

WD40 is not really a releasing agent, it is a rust protection agent,

Plus Gas is a better releasing agent.
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PostPost by: Rich135 » Mon Jan 15, 2018 1:25 pm

billwill wrote:WD40 is not really a releasing agent, it is a rust protection agent,

Plus Gas is a better releasing agent.

Thanks Bill, yes I realised this and bought some penetrating fluid spray to use instead.
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PostPost by: Foxie » Mon Jan 15, 2018 6:34 pm

rgh0 wrote:Most likely a broken diff output shaft. if one breaks inside the diff which is common on pre 1970 cars then you loose drive to both wheels unless you have a LSD

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Rohan


As a matter of interest, I broke an output shaft last September as I was driving home nice and easy from a hillclimb weekend. (Ten years of competition finally catching up)

I don't have a LSD, but I do have a Quaife ATB differential. I lost all drive all the same.

I was able to fit a pair of TT billet shafts before the final outing of the year two weeks later.

They should see me out ! :)
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Mon Jan 15, 2018 7:55 pm

Wonder why, with a Quaife ATB diff would you lose drive?

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PostPost by: rgh0 » Mon Jan 15, 2018 8:09 pm

The Quaiffe diff unit requires some load on one side to send most of the load to the other. If there is no restriction on one side at all then you get none or almost no drive transfer to the other . Maybe if you put enough revs into the diff you would get enough drive to limp slowly home but i have never tried it.

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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Mon Jan 15, 2018 8:46 pm

Rohan

Thanks

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PostPost by: Foxie » Mon Jan 15, 2018 9:50 pm

rgh0 wrote:The Quaiffe diff unit requires some load on one side to send most of the load to the other. If there is no restriction on one side at all then you get none or almost no drive transfer to the other . Maybe if you put enough revs into the diff you would get enough drive to limp slowly home but i have never tried it.

cheers
Rohan

I have to really compliment my local breakdown man who arrived 45 minutes after my phonecall, travelling 30 miles on narrow country roads, at 10pm on a filthy rainy Sunday night. :D
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PostPost by: Rich135 » Tue Jan 16, 2018 8:34 am

Update: the other output shaft is out and it looks like new, no twisting at all and it came out with a puller pretty easily too, so I am guessing that has been replaced at some point.

I got the broken shaft out and separated the case. I can't "see" any swarf in there, but will give it a good clean out anyway, before putting redline GL5 in. I have ordered all the part today, but probably won't get to do more until I am back from a work trip in a week or so.

So far so good :fingers crossed:

Rich
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PostPost by: Rich135 » Sat Feb 03, 2018 3:40 pm

Hi All,

I have rebuilt the diff now and have it all back together. I bought the new brace bar for the diff, but can see that I need a longer bolt to go through the middle of the brace bar and into the diff casing.

None of my random bolt fit as they all seem to be a slightly different thread. Can anyone help me with what type of bolt to order that will fit? I guess there must be a difference between imperial and metric threads??

Once I have that sorted I just have to get the diff back in and I should be on the road again - fingers crossed!

Many thanks

Rich

Edited to add: found a 5/16 "course thread" which has done the job, at homebase.
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PostPost by: Rich135 » Mon Feb 19, 2018 3:12 pm

Hi All

Just to bring this thread to an end (as it's always annoying when you don't know what happened!), I finished putting the car back together yesterday and the test drive was a complete success. No new noises or anything!

I even got a compliment as I filled her up with a fresh tank of fuel, with a passer by saying "beautiful car" which is always nice. She will look even nicer when I have washed the greasy fingerprints off of the body!

Thanks again for everyone's help which gave me the confidence to tackle a job bigger than my experience.

Rich
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PostPost by: StressCraxx » Mon Feb 19, 2018 10:38 pm

Congrats Rich! Well done!

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